Shouldn't it read, most of the money goes to those who are by no stretch of the imagination "smallholders"? *Lunatic*, n. One whose delusions are out of fashion.
But what you say is also true.
There is, however, a lively movement in France in favour of organic and/or high-quality local production by small, sustainable units. Greens/organic people, on the one hand, and among farmers, the Confédération Paysanne, the union José Bové led, are fairly noisy and inspire quite a lot of sympathy.