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My favourite Turkish bath is Kiralyfurdo in Budapest (it is a smallish bath in the original 17th century building, with perforated dome and all). To see pictures, go to http://www.spasbudapest.com/tartalom.php?idx=9 and click on Kiraly.

Fran: what places do you like in the Black Forest?

My all-time favourite is Bad Liebenzell: the sauna area has a landscaped garden with a little pool and two wooden sauna cabins. Fabulous all year round: nothing like a quick outdoor swim in winter or getting a really good tan in summer. In Stuttgart I regularly go to Bad Leuze; that too has a wooden cabin in the middle of a courtyard, a "Sonnenterasse", and on weekend nights sauna guests can swim "Textilfrei" in the big mineral pool...

To see photos of the B. Liebenzell sauna, go to http://www.bad-liebenzell.de, click on Kur und Erholung, then on Sauna Pinea, and then on
"Aussenbereich Sauna".

A dog's a dog. A Cat's a Cat. (T.S. Eliot)

by BFA (agnes at ims dot uni-stuttgart dot de) on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 12:15:58 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Textilfrei, is good, I hadn't heard that one before. I have a tough time convincing my wife, that that is normal. sigh she is just too English to realise that...

I have not really lived, or travelled in the South of Germany to be able to explore these places,

reg. Bad-liebenzell, I also like the sound of "Überraschungsaufguss" at midnight... and I agree Budapest has fantasic baths.

sigh, why am I in England again?

by PeWi on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 12:24:06 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Maybe I'll do some sauna blogging tomorrow...

The whole concept of Aufguss is pretty weird. I don't know if Finns do it. Do they do it in Berlin? (Btw, my favourite German word is Katzenkratzentrommel: denotes a drum-shaped object covered in sisal rope, with not one, but three catnip mousies inside.)

Being British and (not) being Textilfrei: isn't Textilfrei the very thing a self-respecting Bloomsbury person would do? Or all the British expats in France, Italy or Greece ;-)

Unfortunately I don't have your range of experience with baths and saunas (from Bursa to Finnland via Italy, wow!). I've merely been lucky to have lived in Budapest and in Schwabenland (Swabian and Bavarian farmers  used to have a home-grown version of the sauna, at least this is what they claim here).

A dog's a dog. A Cat's a Cat. (T.S. Eliot)

by BFA (agnes at ims dot uni-stuttgart dot de) on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 12:38:31 PM EST
[ Parent ]
the only negative aspect about an Ueberraschungsaufguss is, that it destroys glasses. I am near blind without them, so I wear them in the sauna. Now when you do an aufguss the humidity and temperature rises so quickly that it destroys the protective plastic layer on my glasses, which are made from real glass. This is very annoying and has cost me two sets already.

the nicer effects are obviously that you really start to sweat with all those nice herbs in the aufguss. but you need a good Sauna master, one that fans you fresh air...

regarding textilfrei. britain has dropped the tradition of public baths, i think in the fifties. it has never really been into Nudist beaches or topless sunbathing in public gardens. even if they are english. nudist behaviour on the mediteranean beaches might be more widespread now, but not among those that go to the sauna back home.

There simply is no real sauna culture in Britain. you find your occasional sauna and steam room, but very rarly are there dedicated spaces, if they are they are usually seen as dodgy and pick up places for gay's.
and the public baths obviously don't allow nudity, have no beds to rest on, no foodwarm facilities and no ice-cold plunge-baths.

Nothing.

by PeWi on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 01:36:25 PM EST
[ Parent ]
To me the surprise was, that people might actually put on swimmsuits to the sauna or turkish bath, especially in the US and even being women only. However, textilfrei is much nicer when you are used to it.
by Fran (fran at eurotrib dot com) on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 12:54:46 PM EST
[ Parent ]
it is also more hygenic. You sit on your towel and don;t sweat into the wooden beams. oh don't get me started on british Sauna practice.
DoDo will be mightliy suprised where his train bloggin' lead too.
by PeWi on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 01:39:05 PM EST
[ Parent ]
don't get me started on british Sauna practice.

Listen, lad, just stay home and get your bath proper like, (three inches of lukewarm water at the bottom of the tub on a Friday night), and don't you go getting yourself mixed up with all that foreign stuff. You'll be glad you took my advice.

Perverting a nice clean train blog like that!

by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 04:24:05 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I think, I went to that on a later trip, was a little touchy though, since I had just ruptured my ligaments and the masseusse was a little, aeh, shall we say, rough...
by PeWi on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 12:26:35 PM EST
[ Parent ]
the kiraly bath that is
by PeWi on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 12:27:28 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I too recall two masseuses in the Kiraly. Could have passed for (male) wrestlers. I also recall their roughness; I didn't have torn ligaments, merely very stiff back muscles (nerdish lifestyle and all). Not only did they torture my poor back, they had to ridicule every single knot and kink...

A dog's a dog. A Cat's a Cat. (T.S. Eliot)
by BFA (agnes at ims dot uni-stuttgart dot de) on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 12:43:48 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Well, sounds I stick with ayurvedic abyanga massage, feels good during and afterwards.
by Fran (fran at eurotrib dot com) on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 12:50:39 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Bad Liebenzell definitely is one of my favorites - from a time when I spend quite some time in Stuttgart, it was easy to get there. I am not sure about the Leuze, I know I went to one in Stuttgart, but am not sure anymore where it was. I have to look up the other places though.

Nearer to where I live is Bad Bellingen and Badenweiler, both nice though not comparable to the Friedrichshalle or Bad Liebenzell.

by Fran (fran at eurotrib dot com) on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 12:47:28 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Did a quick check of B. Bellingen and Badenweiler on the 'net, they both look great! I came to prefer B. Liebenzell precisely b/c it's so close to Stuttgart, and I found a great little hotel on the hill just above the sauna.

Stuttgart has three main min. baths, the Leuze, Bad Cannstatt and Berg. Berg is still family-owned, and much of the equipment is quite old. It reminds me of the swimming pools when I was a kid in the '60s, wooden booths for changing and so on. The clientele too is very old-world, unlike yuppified Bad Leuze.

Where do you live now? Around Freiburg or Waldshut-Tiengen?

A dog's a dog. A Cat's a Cat. (T.S. Eliot)

by BFA (agnes at ims dot uni-stuttgart dot de) on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 01:03:46 PM EST
[ Parent ]
No, I live near Basel in Switzerland.
by Fran (fran at eurotrib dot com) on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 01:05:33 PM EST
[ Parent ]

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