Did you have to worry about the violence issues that plague Kashmir during your trip?

I wonder if the border with China is still closed.

Also, I was quite amazed to read that there is some agriculture going on in this area.  Vegetation really is hardy, isn't it?

As for your stories about being in a Jeep with such large drops off the side of the road made me remember my travel in the Andes.  I bet the drivers in India are not as crazy as the ones I encountered.  There were crosses planted all over the side of the highway, just to remind one of one's mortality.

Oh, and about the enlightenment, did the trip help?