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Can you be more specific?
by Nomad on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 10:47:34 AM EST
[ Parent ]
In both the first two pictures there is a lot of light spilling from the bright areas over other areas. In the first one it could be taken as an artistic effect showing the early morning sun, in the second it has completely obliterated the windmills. I'm guessing it's a low-end digital camera that doesn't have a wide exposure range, so that the dark sections are too dark and the bright sections are too white.
by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 10:50:04 AM EST
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I think only that bit is properly exposed ...

by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 10:55:08 AM EST
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Most HDR images you see on the web are completely overdone, but with just a -1/+1 bracketing and a bit of HDR magic this would have been awesome.

A 'centrist' is someone who's neither on the left, nor on the left.
by nicta (nico@altiva․fr) on Sun Mar 9th, 2008 at 09:27:12 AM EST
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by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 10:59:29 AM EST
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I see what you mean. Now ignore the possibilty of a scanner effect.

Question: how would you reduce that kind of flaring effect?

Perhaps I should just take a beginner's course before I start bothering people here...

by Nomad on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 11:21:55 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Don't let bright lights into the frame if you can help it, I'm afraid.

Basically, that's scattering off and between the surfaces of the individual lens elements within the lens (as far as I know!). High-end lenses are designed to avoid it, use all sorts of funky glass and special coatings to reduce the amount of flare from bright patches and correct for other things. (I'm having a sudden crisis of confidence that flare is the right work now. Oh well.)  They don't always succeed - even some very expensive lenses can need careful handling to avoid it.

If your camera can't handle it you need to avoid the bright patches when you can.

by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 11:27:10 AM EST
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s/right work/right word/
by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 11:30:57 AM EST
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That's just so unfair. My schedule and the sun's schedule generally clash, especially on spontaneous trips... Oh well. I'll try to practice on Jozi. But the light contrasts here are large: very harsh and stark during the day, and amazingly gentle after about 4.

I don't see the point of moving towards expensive equipment if I can't make decent compositions in the first place...

by Nomad on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 11:43:22 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Oh, I'm not recommending expensive equipment, I'm just saying! My GR-D has a 40mm adaptor that has good image quality but flares like mad if I'm not careful - lots of extra glass in front of the lens will do that.

Anyhow, you'll just have to talk to Mr Sun about the whole scheduling thing.

A lot of landscape photographers talk about the early and late hours of sunlights as being the magic times for photos. That or an overcast day: trying to take photos in midday sun is hard work.

by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 11:54:27 AM EST
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Having said that, a relatively inexpensive digital at least has the advantage that you can see what's happened immediately.
by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 11:55:54 AM EST
[ Parent ]
 You can reduce a bit of the flare effect with local contrast on Photoshop or Lightroom or some other softwares (I know more about these two).
As it is named, it's a contrast that is applied with a mask at the frontier (aarg... Sometimes english fails me) of differently lighted areas.
It's usually used for hazy pictures and helps with the flare problem.
It automated so you don't really need to know how it works :-)

"What can I do, What can I write, Against the fall of Night". A.E. Housman
by margouillat (hemidactylus(dot)frenatus(at)wanadoo(dot)fr) on Fri Mar 7th, 2008 at 05:49:25 PM EST
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