Happy Halloween From Transylvania!

by soj
Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 10:35:12 AM EST

Well today is Halloween so I would be remiss if I didn't write an article.

I currently live in Romania, which really doesn't celebrate Halloween at all except as a kind of "fad" to observe some western holidays (like St. Patrick's Day for instance). That being said, one of the key figures in Halloween is Dracula, which most definitely has ties to my new homeland.


The name "Dracula" refers to a character in the book of the same name, written by "Abraham" Bram Stoker in 1897 about a vampire. The word "dracula" is a corruption of a Romanian word meaning "the devil" and/or "dragon" and many vampire legends come from Romania, especially the area where I live - Transylvania.

Dracula is also loosely based on the most famous Romanian in history, known in English as "Vlad the Impaler" and in Romanian as Vlad Ţepeş. His last name in Romanian roughly translates to "spike", referring to his preference of impaling people on a sharp pole. Although he was only in power for 6 years, he is estimated to have killed 100,000 people, largely by this method.

At the time Vlad ruled, his nation was under control by the Hungarian Empire. Vlad's father (known as Vlad II) belonged to an order of knights called "Order of the Dragon", which the Latin word for dragon is "draco". Therefore both Vlad and his father were known as Vlad "the dragon" but in Romanian it also means "the devil", giving it a double meaning. Interestingly, the Turks called him "Kaziglu Bey", which also means "the impaler prince". Now that is a reputation.

Vlad "The Impaler" was born in the beautiful town of Sighisoara, and if you've been a reader of my blog for a while, you know that a large part of the medieval aspect of this city still remains. The house where Vlad was born still exists and is a popular destination for tourists.

Although Vlad's father's kingdom was under the control of Hungary, he also had to pay tribute to the Ottoman Empire. Vlad's father was eventually murdered on the orders of the Hungarians and a puppet king was installed. This angered the Turks and they released Vlad "The Impaler" (who had been held in Turkey as a kind of ransom guarantee). He then lost his kingdom as soon as he got it, the next king switched to being a puppet of the Turks, then Vlad came back in power but then got into an argument with King Matthias Corvinus, then regained the favor of the Hungarians.

Although Vlad's reign was very short, his kingdom (then called Wallachia) was right on the buffer zone between Christian Europe and the Muslim Ottoman Empire. In that capacity, Vlad led an army into what is now Bulgaria and defeated the Turks. The Turks responded by attacking what is now the Romanian city of Tirgoviste (Vlad's capital - near modern day Bucharest). Here's what the Ottoman Sultan saw when he came to inspect the siege there:

"[Sultan Mehmed] marched on for about five kilometers when he saw men impaled; the Sultan's army came across a field of stakes, about three kilometers long and one kilometer wide. And there were large stakes upon which he could see the impaled bodies of men, women, and children, about twenty-thousand of them... And the other Turks, seeing so many people impaled, were scared out of their wits."

Just a few years later he was killed under unclear circumstances and his head was placed on a spike outside Istanbul to prove that the Impaler was truly dead. No one knows where Vlad was buried today.

Here is what Wikipedia has to say about Vlad's love for impalement:

Impalement was Dracula's preferred method of torture and execution. Impalement was and is one of the most gruesome ways of dying imaginable. Dracula usually had a horse attached to each of the victim's legs an a sharpened stake was gradually forced into the body. The end of the stake was usually oiled and care was taken that the stake not be too sharp; else the victim might die too rapidly from shock. Normally the stake was inserted into the body through the anus and was often forced through the body until it emerged from the mouth. However, there were many instances where victims were impaled through other bodily orifices or through the abdomen or chest. Infants were sometimes impaled on the stake forced through their mother's chests. The records indicate that victims were sometimes impaled so that they hung upside down on the stake.

Death by impalement was slow and painful. Victims sometimes endured for hours or days. Dracula often had the stakes arranged in various geometric patterns. The most common pattern was a ring of concentric circles in the outskirts of a city that was his target. The height of the spear indicated the rank of the victim. The decaying corpses were often left up for months.

Thousands were often impaled at a single time. Ten thousand were impaled in the Transylvanian city of Sibiu (where Dracula had once lived) in 1460. In 1459, on St. Bartholomew's Day, Dracula had thirty thousand of the merchants and boyars of the Transylvanian city of Brasov impaled. One of the most famous woodcuts of the period shows Dracula feasting amongst a forest of stakes and their grisly burdens outside Brasov while a nearby executioner cuts apart other victims.

What's interesting about the book Dracula and the real Vlad is that the printing press was just coming into widespread usage at the time of Vlad's reign. Therefore sensationalized stories about Vlad's actions were amongst the first "best sellers" of the modern printing press, and much of the legend and myth surrounding the man is no doubt due to these "tabloid" style stories. That being said, there seems to be sufficient evidence that his preference for mass impalements was not exaggerated.

Whatever his reputation and connection to myth in the west, in Romania and Moldova (which was part of Romania until WW2) he is considered to have been a cruel but very fair ruler who defended his people against foreigners. He was also considered to be a stickler for law and order (as opposed to the corruption of the nobility at the time). One story I've heard about Vlad is that he placed a very expensive golden cup near the fountain in the main square and yet no one stole it because they knew they would be caught (and impaled), thereby illustrating the lack of crime under Vlad's reign. I've heard many Romanians lament that Vlad isn't around anymore to "clean up" whatever problems Romania face today.

If you visit Romania today and ask to see "Dracula's castle", more than likely your guide will take you to a castle in the town of Bran. While it is very lovely, it has almost no connection to the historical Vlad and, at most, was where he spent a few nights while engaged in military campaigns. Vlad's capital during his short reign was in Tirgoviste, although very little connected to Vlad still exists. There is however a tradition concerning Vlad's spirit haunting a castle in Hunedoara, although it seems unlikely he used this one anymore than the one in Bran.

So wherever you are, Happy Halloween and if you celebrate this holiday, raise a glass to Romania's most famous hero, whose real actions are far bloodier and savage than the costume you might be donning tonight.

The other half of the literary (and Halloween) Dracula is the fact he was/is a vampire. There are stories about vampires or similar creatures from all over Eastern Europe, including Romania. Famous books and Hollywood movies have spread the "idea" about vampires so well that I am sure you could tell me all about them. But they are simply creatures of lore and imagination, right?

In the year 1054 there was a split between the eastern and western halves of the main Christian church, the western half known today as "Catholic" and the eastern half as "Orthodox". Occasionally a very pious person dies but their body does not decay. In the Catholic church these are called "saints" while in the Orthodox church the word "vampire" is used to describe the same thing - without all the meaning of an undead creature rising to feast on blood, etc.

That being said, even today in Romania there are isolated villages far, far away from the hustling, modern cities who believe that vampires - the undead monsters - still exist. In Romanian they are called strigoi. They are slightly different than the Hollywood version in that the undead do not drink blood, but rise to sap the "life force" of mortals, most often family members and loved ones. The only way to kill a strigoi is to drive a wooden stake through its heart, then burn the heart and consume it.

In 2004 there was an incident in Dolj "County" in Romania wherein prosecutors, perhaps for the first time, prosecuted some locals for digging up a corpse and consuming the heart. Belief in the strigoi is nothing new - what changed was that Romania is in the process of joining the European Union and such ancient beliefs are considered embarassing to the government.

Of course you, like the Romanian government, might find these tales far-fetched and completely irrational. But then again you've never spent a long, cold night in the mountains of Transylvania, where modern civilization has not reached and the old ways haven't changed in hundreds of years, where wild wolves still roam and howl. It's quite easy to be cynical and brave behind the computer isn't?

Happy Halloween!

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As an old Russian once said to me: "Tricks or tricks!"

"Once in awhile we get shown the light, in the strangest of places, if we look at it right" - Hunter/Garcia
by whataboutbob on Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 10:49:01 AM EST
BTW, Bram Stoker put Dracula's home into Transsylvania by error. He was a ruler of Wallachia, South of the Carpathian Mountains. (Today's Romania compromises the territories of the two middle-age vlach prinicipalities Wallachia and Moldavia, which got free of foreign rule and unified around 150 years ago; and Transsylvania and adjoining territories, which had a majority-vlach/Romanian population by 200 years ago and Romania got it from Hungary after the end of WWII.)

Only Dracula's birthplace, Sighisoara (Segesvár in Hungarian, I don't know the Saxon name) is in Transsylvania, and our beloved Dracula was born there because his father was made governor of Transsylvania by the king of Hungary (Sigismund, actually came to Hungary as a prince from Luxemburg, who around the same time also became the Emperor of all German lands). Dracula's father was a bastard of a Wallachian ruler, and exiled, when said Hungarian king took him up in his court.

Dracula's father then had the then Wallachian ruler murdered and took his place, but remained subservient to the Hungarian crown, as a buffer to the Ottoman Empire. After the Turks invaded Transsylvania through Wallachia, a later Hungarian king (Wladislaus, this time from Poland... co-king of both Poland and Hungary)  banished him, that was when Dracula was sent to Istambul as a hostage to secure the Sultan's support for his rule. The final fall-out with Hungary was due to lack of significant for a Hungarian campaign against the Turks, which thus ended in catastrophe. The possible sender of the assassins of Dracula's father, Hungarian baron John Hunyadi, was also of Vlach descent.

(Hunyadi was the then-governor of Transsylvania and overall military commander, and later the European hero of the age when his army held up the first major Turkish invasion against Catholic Europe at Nándorfehérvár, today's Belgrade, in 1456. A little-known fact is that the papal order of the noon bell was originally issued to call people to pray for the besieged, but with the news of victory reaching many places earlier than the order, it turned into victory celebration and later wasn't revoked. Today,  Hunyadi is forgotten except in affected countries where each claims him their own hero.)

Finally, to make the implicit theme in the above complementation of the Dracula story explicit: Central-Eastern European nationalisms all remember these stories in a sub-sampled way, where THE OTHERS were evil schemers and murderers and OUR ANCESTORS were heroes, and real complexities are forgotten. The thus created past grievances that never existed then serve to fuel chauvinism.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 11:45:25 AM EST
due to lack of significant for a Hungarian campaign

lack of significant support... (which was, obviously, because of his children held hostage in Istambul)

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 11:48:21 AM EST
[ Parent ]
so...who was the guy who lived off of blood? </snark>

"Once in awhile we get shown the light, in the strangest of places, if we look at it right" - Hunter/Garcia
by whataboutbob on Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 12:18:52 PM EST
[ Parent ]
This is where I come clean and admit... Ever since my Romanian dentist* did root-canal work on my upper canines, I get this funny feeling at night.

Especially tonight...

Afew Dripping Fang Technology ™

* Alex, if you're reading this, drop in a comment to reassure me -- and the others... ;)

by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 02:11:04 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Thanks for the history lesson. I dug into these stories, first from the Hungarian perspective for my Masters, and then from the Ukrainian one for my PhD, it was endlessly fascinating. I also got the Turkish version at a conference last year, by a well known writer whose name escapes me, and it provided an interesting counterpoint (and it did show that Turkeyt was just as European as the others, with all the good and the bad that this entails...)

PS, can't resist - You forgot to mention that Hunyadi was also a duke in Korea; his brother Sumsang is also usually mentioned...

In the long run, we're all dead. John Maynard Keynes

by Jerome a Paris (etg@eurotrib.com) on Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 12:31:14 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I dug into these stories, first from the Hungarian perspective for my Masters, and then from the Ukrainian one for my PhD, it was endlessly fascinating.

Interesting! Could you tell more about this? (The Turkish too?) I thought you are a trained economist, do economic studies extend this far back and touch on so much 'real' history? ('Real' as in: sequence of who slaughtered whom in time :-) )

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 04:28:28 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Well, my Masters' dissertation (in Geopolitics) was about Hungary's relations with its neighbors in the late 80s/early 90s. I wrote it in 1992 and had the opportunity to tour parts of the border areas on both sides. Obviously, the issues with some of the neighbors were linked to more or less appeased historical grievances, so I did have to dig into the history of the region. I still have in my archives a number of fascinating maps from various dates in the first half of this century, with various borders, ethnic settlements, etc... Simply finding the 3 Hungarian, German and Romanian names for cities was fun (for an outsider...)

My PhD was about the independence of Ukraine, so I did look into the history of the region for various spells of independence or control by others (an incredibly long list, btw).

The amazing Turkish speech was at a CERA conference, but sadly I could never get access to a written version of it (CERA did not have it, apparently)

In the long run, we're all dead. John Maynard Keynes

by Jerome a Paris (etg@eurotrib.com) on Tue Nov 1st, 2005 at 05:30:52 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Thanks for the expanded historical portion.. I was trying to keep it to a minimum to focus on the Halloween-y side of things but there was a lot of interesting political chess playing going on at the time.

FYI, Sighisoara was known in German as Schassburg, which I believe means the "sixth" town out of the Big 7 the Saxons fortified during this era.

While it is true that Vlad mostly controlled Wallachia, which is southern and eastern Romania (today), he also controlled parts of what is now Moldova.  But two of his most famous mass impalements occurred in Sibiu and Brasov, both in Transylvania, and his victims were the Saxon merchants and Hungarian nobles.

Technically speaking Transylvania would only be united with the rest of Romania in 1918.  What's interesting (to me anyway) is that it isn't called Transylvania in the local languages, that being the Latin name (for "beyond the forests").  

It is referred to in Romania as "Ardeal" which few Romanians know is a corruption of the Hungarian name "Erdelyi" (apologies for spelling) for the area.

Stoker I don't think put "Dracula" in Transylvania by error, just stole the name and notoriety of Vlad (the dragon/devil "Draculea") and combined it with the vampire legends.  The book Dracula takes place some 400 years after Vlad's actual reign.

There are still tours you can go on to follow Harker's "route", which start in the city now known as Bistrita.

Pax

Night and day you can find me Flogging the Simian

by soj on Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 12:55:18 PM EST
[ Parent ]
two of his most famous mass impalements occurred in Sibiu and Brasov, both in Transylvania

Yeah, extension of the extension: I believe Dracula, like his father, was also named governor of Transsylvania for some time (by king Matthias Corvinus, son of John Hunyadi) while he too was in exile - but don't have time to look this up now.

"Erdelyi" (apologies for spelling)

Erdély. Comes from erdő, which means forest.

BTW, with reliance on my cultural anthropologist brother, on Transsylvania's (current) settlement: the Hungarian tribes, mostly the "Eigth Tribe" of the Turkic Kabars (rather than the seven with Finno-Ugric ancestry) first settled only in the lowlands 1100 years ago - the mountains were settled only later, but then simultaneously by the Székelys (who are probably descendants of the Kabars to the most part) and the vlachs, and the Saxons (strange choice of name, they were actually immigrants mostly from Hessen and Schwaben) were invited about the same time to work the mines. Thus even if the Romanian nationalist mythology of the Daco-Roman continuity (not to speak of even stranger Hungarian nationalist mythologies) is wrong, the silly competition of who came first should be a non-starter.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 04:24:00 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Thanks for the spelling help.. I really can't grasp the Hungarian language other than a few memorized phrases like "thank you".

What's interesting, as I am sure you know, is that in Romania the Szekelys are considered "different" than the rest of the Hungarians.  Indeed, many Hungarians from Hungary come to Romania to visit the Szekelys and see where they live, esp because they live in the "old ways" which haven't changed much over the centuries.

Romania is certainly an interesting country and the more time I live here, the more I learn about it and all the various peoples who live here, including the Lipoveni, a sort of Russian cult who hail from near the Black Sea coast.

Pax

Night and day you can find me Flogging the Simian

by soj on Tue Nov 1st, 2005 at 02:18:10 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Yes, the poor Székelys - under Ceauşescu, they were officially considered to be Romanians assimilated by Hungarians, other Hungarians in Transsylvania look(ed) down on them as stupid peasants, while nationalist Hungarians elsewhere consider them - as you say - the uncorrupted guardians of the old ways, and come to see them like in a zoo...

They (or more correctly: their foremen) were certainly separate at the time of Transsylvania's relative autonomy - when from 1437, in the "unio trium nationum", Hungarian noblemen, Székely foremen and Saxon patricians were granted equal rights (and peasants, including all vlachs/Romanians, denied all rights - this agreement came just after the defeat of a peasant revolt). As for earlier times, the continuity from the Kabars is only tentative (I'm again relying on my brother here).

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Tue Nov 1st, 2005 at 09:06:08 AM EST
[ Parent ]
In the meantime, I could look up some sources - no, Vlad "Dracula" Ţepeş was never a governor of Transsylvania. Vlad slaughtered Saxons and Hungarians around Braşov (=Brassó=Kronstadt) in punitive campaigns (he suspected the Saxons to hide a pretender to his throne, was displeased at their attempts at controlling trade, and was angry at lack of support for an anti-Turkish campaign of his).

Then again, a small region around Făgăraş (Hungarian: Fogaras) - the same region for which vlachs (Romanians) are first mentioned in Transsylvania in written documents (from 1210, 1223 and 1231) - was granted as a fief in exchange for submission to the crown to the Wallachian prince for about 100 years (until Matthias captured Dracula).

I don't know where Dracula's main seat was, it must have been near today's Bucharest, but here are some pictures (and a map) for one castle he definitely owned and lived in (unlike in Bran): Poienari.

According to what I found, Vlad Ţepeş didn't control Moldavia either: it was ruled at this same time by its greatest ruler, Stefan the Great (who, by the way, conducted a similar punitive campaign for the exact same reasons against a Saxon city in Transsylvania).

Dracula was eventually dethroned when his noblemen and the Turks allied against him, he fled to Transsylvania, where he was detained and sent to Matthias's court, where he was put under house arrest - because of a letter (a copy survives in the Vatican) in which he proposed his alliance against Hungary to the Sultan, allegedly captured by said Stefan of Moldavia, and probably a forgery by the Saxons.

The earliest sources (the same middle-age yellow press you refer to, and some diplomatic notes) say that he was shown to visitors of the court kind of to scare them; and that when he was released and put back on the Wallachian throne 12 years later (to be murdered shortly after), he converted to Catholicism. (So one could say that both Dracula in his second reign and his father were puppet kings of the Hungarians, too.)

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Tue Nov 1st, 2005 at 10:00:07 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Ah, just one minute more, and I got the Wallachian seat in Dracula's time... it was at Târgovişte, just South of the Carpathian mountains on the road from Brasov to Bucharest. (The photo on the linked main page shows a tower ordered built by Vlad Ţepeş himself.)

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Tue Nov 1st, 2005 at 10:11:20 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Wow. What amazes me is that in the 600 years, our species has learnt so little.

According to my calculations :-) it will take another 600 years to get rid of torture.

If you want me to go back to the place I was born , tell your corporations to leave my country (Leon Gieco)

by cruz del sur (chenicodk@sbcglobal.net) on Mon Oct 31st, 2005 at 10:30:12 PM EST

as rendered by Edward Gorey

"...psychopaths have little difficulty infiltrating the domains of...politics, law enforcement, (and) government." Dr. Robert Hare

by RubDMC (rubdmc at yahoodotcom) on Tue Nov 1st, 2005 at 12:49:31 AM EST


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