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by Fran
This is how the Fasnacht, here in Basel, will start tomorrow morning - with the Morgenstraich. For some the three most beautiful days of the year begin.
The three-day event traditionally kicks off with an early morning procession, the Morgenstreich, which starts at 4 a.m. on Monday morning. This is a procession of about 200 illuminated canvass lanterns decorated with paintings and rhymes that make fun of a particular "subject" - a local event from the past year. After the city's streetlights are switched off, these lanterns are paraded through the darkened streets, accompanied by the cliques with their drummers and piccolo players. The bars and restaurants serve the three dishes traditionally associated with Fasnacht: Mehlsuppe (a hearty broth made from flour and onion), and onion and cheese pies.
It is hard to describe what it is really like. There are 10 thousands of people moving into the center of town until it is crowded and hard to move. Then the waiting and exactly 4 AM to lights go off, for a moment there is total silence and all at once the 'cliques' start playing their drums and piccolos. Their sound reverberates from the houses, while groups start slowly marching, the people following behind them. The only light is the light from the lanterns the groups wear on their head or the big ones, which are usually carried by four men. The costumes of the cliques are mixed as they are wearing old ones, from earlier years. Only in the afternoon will they be wearing the new ones, this time all members of a group will look the same.
Usually after 5 am when people start getting cold they head to a 'beiz' a bar or restaurant were the traditional Morgestraich-meal is served. Then it is time to head to work or for the active participants to prepare for the afternoon cortège.
One of the traditional costumes is the 'Waggis' which originally comes from the Alsace in France. Every clique will have their own 'sujet' or topic, which is mostly local politics but also international topics will be featured. This cortège will be repeated on Wednesday afternoon. Every evening the cliques will be marching through the old part of town, people walking behind them. Another newer feature from this Fasnacht is the 'Gugge' music. A gugge in the local dialect is a bag, but they are actually brass bands. For the unadjusted ear it might sound as if they are playing slightly wrong. That is on purpose and usually they have hot rhythms. Their focus point is Tuesday evening when they will give concerts on different locations around town.
There is one more feature of the Basler Fasnacht I would like to mention, though there a many more, the 'Schnitzelbängg'.
On the Monday and Wednesday evening, more than 100 groups of Schnitzelbank singers tour the city's bars and restaurants, reciting their verses on local topics from the past year. The melodies vary, but the playful and ironic content is always written in the local dialect. The central point is usually only touched on indirectly, and the real object of ridicule only becomes apparent towards the end. If you are interested to see some more pictures here is are some from last year. If you are interested to see more of this years Fasnacht here is a live link were you can watch the cortège tomorrow. |
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Swiss Cultural Snippet: It's 4 AM - Lights out! | 0 comments (0 topical, 0 editorial, 0 hidden)
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