Open Borders

by DoDo
Sun Dec 23rd, 2007 at 03:53:16 AM EST

Open borders feel liberating, feel symbolic of transition to peace, and they are the most recognised effect of the EU.

Yesterday (21 December 2007), the Schengen Area was expanded East and South to take up most of the ten new EU members from 2005 (Cyprus is the exception). Thus some borders with rather heavy history became transparent in Central Europe. These included most of what was the Iron Curtain (all but the long gone German-German part).

But where I was today was the border of Slovakia and Hungary. Below some personalised words on that border, and some photos I took (which are utter crap due to awful light conditions, I only dare to post them for the documentary value).

Old road from Bernecebaráti/Hungary towards Homok/Slovakia (part of Šahy [Hungarian: Ipolyság]), with the barrier (in the middle of the unpaved section) gone after 52 years. (The road curving right in the foreground follows the border.)


I went to the section of the border along the Ipeľ (H: Ipoly) river. Though the Ottoman Empire's vague Northern border was around here from 1552 to c. 1686, this border as a sharp line is relatively new. It was created as the border of Czechoslovakia and Hungary by the post-WWI peace agreements that cut up Austria-Hungary.

The pike is up as a car crosses the border along the old Tésa/Hungary - Vyškovce nad Ipľom/Slovakia [H: Visk] road. Again a border point that used to be closed for the public.

The borders weren't drawn exactly along geographic or ethnic borders. Not the least because there were no clear ethnic borders. But the economic cohesion of the new states was also used as argument, so sometimes it was ensured that a railway line would stay in one country.

After the border point on the above picture, the road from Tésa curves down the hill, crosses the Čata-Šahy [H: Csata-Ipolyság] branchline (in front with small bridge over a creek), then crosses the Ipeľ (H: Ipoly) river on a bridge to Vyškovce [H: Visk].
What would have been the natural border here: the Ipeľ (H: Ipoly) river, now with sides freezing.

Already between the wars, neighbour relations between the nation states weren't exactly friendly. Hungary's leaders for their part pursued border corrections ("irredentism") in similar fashion as Hitler: first demand areas with ethnic majority, but aim for a later conquest of the rest. The first part was 'awarded' in 1939 by Hitler and Mussolini at the Vienna conference, so for six years there was again no border here -- that was when one set of my grandparents met.

When the Red Army marched through here at the end of 1944, and collected all males of suspected military age, one great-uncle -- who was in a youth organisation that was taken to work in factories in Germany, but ran away and walked home on foot -- was hidden by a friendly Slovak family (and met his future wife) in Vyškovce/Visk.

Again the border at the old Homok-Bernecebaráti road (see above fold), now viewed in the opposite direction. The bent remains of the border pike to the left.

In communist times, official language always added "friendly" as an epithet to the name of every Warshaw Pact country. Yet, the borders of those friendly countries were anything but friendly. In fact, for a decade or so, normal people couldn't cross the borders at all (not even for a funeral of one's mother, as happened to my other grandmother and Romania).

East of Šahy/Ipolyság, where the border again follows the Ipeľ/Ipoly, it happened that my relatives, including then 7, 5 and 3-year-old children, were arrested by the Hungarian border guards during a winter walk. Tho', maybe that came to be because the sergeant suspected that the mysterious guy smuggling stuff across the river by night is one of my great-uncles...

Later on, travel was made easier for common people, and even later the only-once-in-three-years rule remained only for the West. Still, the border meant barbed wire, soldiers with guns and dogs; and border crossing meant stopping at border stations for at least half an hour, while children were told to stay quiet and unsuspicious, and waiting to be checked by guards of both countries, one after the other.

After 1989, the procedure was steadily softened -- no limits and requirements on money, friendlier guards, just one check per direction, then with EU membership fast-tracking of  nationals on both sides, who could just use their ID cards instead of a passport requirement.

The vacated border checkpoint between Parassapuszta/Hungary and Šahy/Slovakia. I went through here innumerable times on family visits to relatives, cemeteries or just travel.
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You here more to the West, do you remember when Schengen (or the Scandinavian customs union or BeNeLux regulations for that matter) 'hit' near you? Have you 'tried' to cross the border when new?

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 01:59:42 PM EST
I recall that when I was in then West Germany, we once traveled to Luxembourg, and what a feeling it was to see that the border was already open there. (Schengen was ratified in 1985 but fully implemented only in 1995.) My next experience was only a decade later, on a trip across Austria, Germany and France to Britain.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 02:04:34 PM EST
[ Parent ]
where I grew up, the border was obvious - the Rhine, only a handful of bridges to cross it, but there were no controls already back in the 70s (and when I say no controls, I mean the border was often not even manned).

As a kid, I used to bike to Germany to go to the swimming pool (there was a nicer open-air swimming pool on the German side) and i was never ever controlled.

Locals would honk non locals that stopped at the border signs and wondered what they should do, given the absence of border guards...

In the long run, we're all dead. John Maynard Keynes

by Jerome a Paris (etg@eurotrib.com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 03:22:47 PM EST
[ Parent ]
The French-Spanish border was practically completely open from, as I remember, after Franco kicked the bucket, and then almost disappeared with Schengen.

OTOH, Britain is of course not Schengen. The only time border police ever hassled me was going into Britain (Heathrow) from France, because my passport was out of date. This was perfectly legal, specifically allowed by law. And I was entering my own country. Just a plain-clothes cop swinging his weight. Gaaah.

by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 03:46:04 PM EST
[ Parent ]
What you and Jérôme ex à Strasbourg wrote is interesting. Back at the end of the eighties and early nineties, the Austria-Germany, Netherlands-Germany and Austria-Italy borders were manned and people were controlled; though it went in much smoother fashion than at the now abolished borders.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 04:18:12 PM EST
[ Parent ]
The France - Switzerland border has been essentially unmanned for quite some time, i.e. a decade and a half, except at a few larger crossings.

Three years ago I hiked the length of the Jura mountains ; crossing the border quite a few times, walking on its length too. We got checked only once, at the last border crossing, as we were along a large road.


Un roi sans divertissement est un homme plein de misères

by linca (antonin POINT lucas AROBASE gmail.com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 05:24:07 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Ah, mountains, I never understood what those planning border controls thought about that. Or, for that matter, why human smugglers were wasting time and energy on getting across the busiest checkpoints and the flat fields nearby.

Only a few years after the change, I was at an excursion to a mountain on the border of Austria and Hungary. The Iron Curtain was gone, but still, this was the border where Fortress Europe was fending off the invasion of Eastern Hordes. Yet, masses of tourists from both sides were arriving to climb the observation tower, and no border guard was anywhere to be seen. I thought I could start a great business of human smuggling using the disguise of tourist groups...

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 05:41:22 PM EST
[ Parent ]
(but note that this was only on major crossing points) was that they always were present, and very often controlled you, ie asked to see id/passport and would occasionally interrogate you as to the purpose of your trip or even ask to open the boot.

In the long run, we're all dead. John Maynard Keynes
by Jerome a Paris (etg@eurotrib.com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 05:54:35 PM EST
[ Parent ]
The Swiss-French border where I live is quite easy, provided you follow the proper border crossing protocol for entering Switzerland:
  1. Slow down as you approach the border
  2. The guards will not look at you, but they see you! Keep going slowly.
  3. Slow to a near stop, but do not actually stop (this annoys them a lot, I've seen them yelling at people for stopping)
  4. Wait for it... Wait for it...
  5. One of the guards will make a small gesture with one of his hands. This means 'go'.
  6. Go! Don't hesitate! Speed up just a little, cross the border, and then proceed at normal speed
Works like a charm. I've never been stopped. As I have smuggled a lot of meat across that border, this is a very good thing. (Meat is better, and cheaper, in France. Food in general, actually. The Swiss food stores are just not as inspiring as the French ones.)
by someone (s0me1smail(a)gmail(d)com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 06:09:12 PM EST
[ Parent ]
on what license plate you have...

In the long run, we're all dead. John Maynard Keynes
by Jerome a Paris (etg@eurotrib.com) on Sun Dec 23rd, 2007 at 08:59:36 AM EST
[ Parent ]
True. Better be a Geneva one. French green plates work as well. And I've heard they like the French 01 better than 74, for some strange reason.
by someone (s0me1smail(a)gmail(d)com) on Sun Dec 23rd, 2007 at 09:21:07 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Nope, never crossed any 'new' border. But just the other day I was on a night train from Basel to Copenhagen and at the German-Danish border, at 06h30 or some suchlike ungodly hour the door was wrested open, and a demand for passports was issued. I, still partly asleep, and certainly not happy about having been so brutally awakened, crankely barked back: "Don't we have some treaty about this? Maybe an EU directive as well, prohibiting the waking of sleeping passengers before dawn? What is this? A fascist state? Papers, please? At this hour?" The passport guy went away, identification documents unseen. I fell back asleep.

Maybe this Schengen thing is a bit of a joke? Or, at least not enough to prevent the undue hassling of sleeping folks? Maybe the border people just have to be reminded of the open borders thing from time to time? I have no idea what that was all about!

by someone (s0me1smail(a)gmail(d)com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 05:41:58 PM EST
[ Parent ]
They obviously hadn't got the memo about you ...
by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 05:45:10 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Was there some, uhm, event in Denmark at the time? Say, the riots because of that youth house?

It's part of the Schengen treaty that border controls can be temporarily re-instated in case of some security-sensitive event, say a football match drawing hooligans or a big summit. (From what I heard, France made most use of this exception since 1995.)

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 05:48:38 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Forgot the LOL!

Must have been a sight, that running-away border guard...

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 05:49:51 PM EST
[ Parent ]
When I recently took a sleeper train from Madrid to Paris, the French authorities had demanded to see all passports at the border [apparently the Schengen agreement allows for this on an occasional basis, with cause] so they came and collected them when we departed so they didn't have to wake us up at 2am.

We have met the enemy, and he is us — Pogo
by Migeru (migeru at eurotrib dot com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 05:51:00 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I must have crossed the border between Spain and Portugal a number of times while on vacation in Galicia with my parents when I was a child, but I have no recollection of border checks. Then again, I wasn't really paying attention.

We have met the enemy, and he is us — Pogo
by Migeru (migeru at eurotrib dot com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 06:02:42 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Have you seen the Wim Wenders film Lisbon Story? The form me inforgettable fast-tracked-road-movie intro includes the passing of such a Spanish-Portuguese border.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 06:07:27 PM EST
[ Parent ]
No, I haven't.

The border I'm talking about is the last crossing of the Miño (Minho?) river before it empties on the sea.

We have met the enemy, and he is us — Pogo

by Migeru (migeru at eurotrib dot com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 10:02:41 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I find these rusty limited tone range defoliaged photos very beautiful

You can't be me, I'm taken
by Sven Triloqvist on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 02:46:49 PM EST
Thanks, but (1) I used in part heavy over-saturation to get them even this 'colorful', (2) my hands were too shaky to hold steady over the exposure times of almost all photos I took, five of these seven are among the least bad (the two worse are the ones I re-sized only 400 pixel wide).

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 03:01:16 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Interesting diary, DoDo. And like Sven I like the pictures - they convey a special atmosphere.
by Fran (fran at eurotrib dot com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 02:58:33 PM EST
What a great diary, DoDo.  It marks an important moment in history.  I really like the photos too.  I guess that something looking flat and dull to you is a new environment to me and a very interesting one.

Ad astra per aspera
by In Wales (inwales aaat eurotrib.com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 03:28:00 PM EST
Not flat and dull, unsharp and even without the shades of brown and grey one sees in more light :-)

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 03:45:00 PM EST
[ Parent ]
These photos convey "thereness" in a way more colourful or carefully composed photos would not.
by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 03:48:30 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I agree.

Ad astra per aspera
by In Wales (inwales aaat eurotrib.com) on Sat Dec 22nd, 2007 at 04:00:11 PM EST
[ Parent ]
you know, this border thingy is what i like best about the EU, to see the smiles on the faces of uniting families, to think of these archaic, bureaucratic, often historically bloodsoaked, cognitively dissonant symbols removed, brings a big warm smile to my heart.

watching the opening on tv, i saw those puzzled, relieved, incredulous smiles again, and reflected on how when it's finally time for a great change, it can happen without a lot of fandango, sorta like the world ending with a whimper not a bang, but in a positive way.

a return to normality...

up close, europe has barely begun its reforging, but these border crossings are a great affirmation of trust, a removal of old tumours from the body politic.

i agree about the pix, they are loaded with atmosphere.

thanks dodo, it's wonderful, what you bring to these pages to learn.

"Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do." Jim Hightower

by melo (melometa4(at)gmail.com) on Sun Dec 23rd, 2007 at 05:37:34 AM EST
You know, I had never driven across any international border in my entire life until about seven or eight years ago, and then I messed it up so badly that I almost ended up in jail.

I mean, I'd driven across America east-to-west twice, and north-to-south a few times, and all kinds of places in between... and I'd flown to a variety of other countries, but I'd never driven into Canada or Mexico (never lived anywhere near either border) and so had never crossed a national border by car.

So then I was going into a certain southern African country that I shall not name, from a different African country, and I didn't know how to do it.  I guess if I'd thought about it, I would have realized that I needed to go to passport control on both sides of the border, just like you have to exit through passport control at one airport and enter through it at another airport.  But I wasn't really thinking about it, and I went to passport control to get my exit stamp, and then drove to the other side, and just kept on driving -- there were no signs indicating that I should stop, and the guy on the other side didn't even ask for my passport, he just waved me through.  And it wasn't till a few days later, when I tried to leave, that a guard a different border post asked for where my entry stamp was so she could stamp the exit stamp across it, which was required.  And I didn't have one.  And it took a lot of cajoling and begging and pleading (but somewhat surprisingly, not a hint of a bribe or even a request for one) to convince her that it was a genuine (if very stupid) mistake and I would never do it again.  (This was pre-9/11, and I suspect that as notoriously bad as U.S. immigration controls have become since then, she might today be less inclined to grant me any slack.  Which would, honestly, be entirely her right.  I still can't believe I got away with it.)

The irony being that I'd been through more than one checkpoint at which my passport had been demanded and inspected, but apparently not really inspected, and in one case the policeman was too busy hitting on me and trying to arrange to marry my sister to notice that I had no stamps.

Sibling-marriage-offers aside, having a passport that is totally crammed with stamps from all over is a nice deterrent to having it too closely inspected -- I also got into Iraq one without a proper visa and was afraid they'd arrest me on the way out, but the guy didn't even notice.  (Which is actually how I got in without a visa in the first place.)

Since then, I've crossed lots of borders in the Middle East and Africa, and just about every one of them (except a few very remote crossings) have been nightmarish with the long lines (or chaotic mob-scenes-instead-of-lines) and ridiculous delays and cars stacked up on top of each other and visas being questioned and cars being searched, and occasional bottles of whiskey or packs of cigarettes or just plain money changing hands to facilitate the process.  The only orderly one I can recall was in Botswana, where everything is orderly.

But I still have never driven across a border in Europe, or in North America, for that matter.  I have nothing to compare it to.

As much as I dread the border hassles, I do mourn the death of the passport stamp.  I love new passport stamps.  I covet new passport stamps.  And it's sort of dispiriting to be traveling around in Europe and not get any new ones....

by the stormy present (stormypresent aaaaaaat gmail etc) on Sun Dec 23rd, 2007 at 01:47:14 PM EST
You should probably not go to the US with a passport full of African and Middle-Eastern state stamps these days... In fact, back already in 1999, we were allowed to have two passports (same number and same name) when travelling a lot, in order, officially, to have the time to getvisas from countries that took their time, but in reality to be able to travel to sensitive places without compromising the ability to travel to places that worried about these. I have a passport with stamps from Iran, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Turkmenistan and 10 pages of Russian stamps (in fact, there's no available space on it anymore); it's no longer valid but I'd be curious to see the reaction of Homeland Security to it...

As to missing stamps, I did manage to get into Russia once without getting my passport stamped (I took the night train from Kiev to Moscow), but I did get the exit stamp without a problem. I also managed to take a Lebanese rental car into Syria, something that was apparently strictly forbidden, but which did happen (and that's when I discovered that there was no unleaded fuel in Syria -back in 1997 - so we had to limit our driving around; we ended up staying in Hama and rented Mercedes taxis for daytrips while we were there). But I do have a detailed stamp in the passpost wit hthe car registration number on it... btw Syria was the one place where the personality cult was creepier than anything I saw in the Soviet Union and Former Soviet Union.

In the long run, we're all dead. John Maynard Keynes

by Jerome a Paris (etg@eurotrib.com) on Sun Dec 23rd, 2007 at 04:50:04 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I have a second passport, but nowadays it's only for Israel.  (Lebanon and Syria won't let you in with Israeli stamps, or with exit stamps from the Egyptian or Jordanian border posts connecting with Israel, even if you don't have the Israeli stamp itself.)  We used to have to use it sometimes to get into the countries allied with different sides in the war in DRC, but that's mostly over now.

With all my Syrian and Saudi and Lebanese and whatever stamps now, I keep expecting the folks in the US to give me a hard time, but they've always actually been rather polite.  I have trouble reconciling my experiences with everything else I hear.

I did get a right sound grilling at Heathrow last year, though.

by the stormy present (stormypresent aaaaaaat gmail etc) on Sun Dec 23rd, 2007 at 05:35:53 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I did get a right sound grilling at Heathrow last year, though.

probably cos they knew you were about to go drinking with a known subversive.

keep to the Fen Causeway

by Helen (lareinagal at yahoo dot co dot uk) on Mon Dec 24th, 2007 at 06:47:21 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Envious at your job, project finance really seems great.

:-)

Peak oil is not an energy crisis. It is a liquid fuel crisis.

by Starvid (arvid.hallen at gmail.com) on Wed Dec 26th, 2007 at 12:01:24 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Those are interesting pictures on several levels. They could have been taken in rural New England, say Vermont or New Hampshire. Your power lines are different from ours, but otherwise the scenery and infrastructure are very similar.
by asdf on Sun Dec 23rd, 2007 at 05:54:43 PM EST
Are the walls of rural homes made of brickstone in Vermont and New Hampshire?

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Mon Dec 24th, 2007 at 02:16:20 PM EST
[ Parent ]
"Brickstone" doesn't translate into American English. Rural and suburban houses in the U.S. are almost always constructed with wood framing, sometimes with a non-structural brick veneer.

The construction system for new housing here is standardized throughout the country, using standard length vertical studs in the walls, standard door and window sizes, standard (usually prefabricated) roof framing, standard heating, plumbing, electricity, etc. Houses built since the 1950s are surprisingly homogeneous. While building codes are controlled locally, they're based on national suggestions and don't vary much from place to place.

Some old houses are made of brick or stone, depending on regional tradition, but it's rare in new construction.

by asdf on Mon Dec 24th, 2007 at 11:40:50 PM EST
[ Parent ]


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