Food misnomers

by DoDo
Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 08:05:54 AM EST

It came up in a recent discussion that the geographic origin of a food is not necessarily indicated by its name. The most well known in English is, of course, French aka Freedom Fries -- in reality fried frenched potato, invented in Belgium.

Photo by user telephaticgeorge from Flickr.

How many of these misnomers are you aware of? Be them misnomers used in your neighbourhood, or food named for your country/region/city elsewhere in the world? I believe to know quite a number -- used in Budapest's restaurants and cafés.


The discussion started in Izzy's Trantor diary with a Los Angeles speciality: the French-dip sandwich.

Photo by Melissa Hom from New York Magazine.

...which reminded me of something that, AFAIK, has its origin in Budapest, and only used in Hungarian: the so-called "French salad"; made up of potato, apple, carrot pieces and peas in mayonnaise.

Photo from Hermina Hidegkonyha.

I was recently told that another cold dish common here is also a local creation: the so-called "Swedish mushroom salad", mushrooms in a sauce of tomato, red onions and various herbs. Anyone who knows it by the same or a different name?

Photo from Manókonyha.

A fairly recent and popular creation sold in cheap restaurants is the so-called "Milanese pork rib". It has nothing to do with Milan, but with another Italian city: it is just fried pork rib with spaghetti Bolognese...

Photo from Italia Pizzeria.

Another semi-misnomer. The Székely are a Hungarian-speaking ethnic / Hungarian sub-ethnic in Transylvania. Cabbage and sauerkraut is a basic culinary ingredient there. However, the common Hungarian food called székelykáposzta or székely gulyás = "Székely sauerkraut" or "Székely goulash" has nothing to do with Transylvania. It was named for archivist József Székely, who 'invented' it in 1846 during a late restaurant visit, when he asked for the mixing of food remains.

Photo from hu.Wikipedia.

Finally, yet another semi-misnomer. Dobos torta = "drummer cake" is a pastry product, commonly assumed to be named so because of its drum-like shape. However, it, too, is in reality bearing the name of its creator: József C. Dobos, a pastry-cook from Budapest, who invented it in 1885.

Photo from Herr cukrászda.

So: any additions?

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*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 06:49:20 AM EST
I think "Milanese" refers to the breadcrumb covering of the pork ribs.

A veal cutlet alla Milanese is breaded and fried, like a wiener schnitzel, but left on the bone. In France an escalope milanaise is a thicker veal escalope than a wiener schnitzel, but breaded in the same way.

by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 10:06:14 AM EST
I learned that milanese is adding cheese, preferable parmigiano to the breadcrumps or even replacing them fully with cheese and usually without bones and also thin like Wienerschnitzel.
by Fran (fran at eurotrib dot com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 01:50:20 PM EST
[ Parent ]
The traditional Finnish Wienerschnitzel has one main distinguishing feature: it is topped by a slice of lemon, with capers and an anchovy filet on top.

You can't be me, I'm taken
by Sven Triloqvist on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 02:03:14 PM EST
[ Parent ]
The traditional Finnish Wienerschnitzel has ... an anchovy filet on top.

LOL

Does it come with a side of garum?

No one could have predicted

by ATinNM on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 02:11:30 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Usually a shot of garum extra superbe in a small glass resembling half a test tube, that was historically and ceremonially smashed into the log fire after each shot. The custom continues in the gas station lunch joints of modern Finland in the contents of the small basket found on each table: plastic mustard and tomato ketchup dispensers, bottle of HP sauce, iodized salt and a straight-sided shot glass containing wrapped toothpicks. The glass is a vestige of that old garum custom.

Anything else you need to know? ;-)

You can't be me, I'm taken

by Sven Triloqvist on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 02:34:06 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I reassure you that the Budapest version has nothing to do with Milan or veal cutlet alla Milanese. It's giving another "Italian" name to a new use of Bolognese sauce. I haven't detailed in the diary, but the sauce is like Bolognese save for the meat (well -- in most cases), and it is often poured atop the fried pork rib, too -- thus some times the sauce itself is called "Milanese sauce".

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 03:20:05 PM EST
[ Parent ]
That picture of a so-called Italian dish is outright disgusting. No self-respecting Italian would slap a cotoletta alla milanese on top of pasta.

As for the cotoletta alla bolognese it is usually made as follows: bread and fry veal cutlets; place a slice of raw ham and some parmesan on top of each cutlet; add a little broth and cook until the cheese begins to melt. Slice some truffle before serving. Often tomato sauce is added.

by de Gondi (publiobestia aaaatttthotmaildaughtusual) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 06:57:29 PM EST
[ Parent ]
That picture of a so-called Italian dish is outright disgusting. No self-respecting Italian would slap a cotoletta alla milanese on top of pasta.

Tastes differ :-)  Modern Hungarian food can compete easily with American food in heaviness (though a sandwitch stuffed with potato chips is an abomination even seen from here). Though, I personally have eaten this "Milanese pork rib" only 1-2 times, pasta with breaded meat is a bit too heavy for me.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 05:39:51 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Modern Hungarian food can compete easily with American food in heaviness

And this is true despite significant regional variation: the one unifying trait of the food in the capital and the various rural regions is being high in calories. Now, given that most of even the traditional rural food is relatively recent, I was wondering how the food of the lower classes was before -- I don't think the serfs 200 years ago could afford meat and fat most of the days, so it must have been a lot richer in vegetables and vitamines.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 05:57:03 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Who stuffs sandwiches with potato chips?

I can swear there ain't no heaven but I pray there ain't no hell. _ Blood Sweat & Tears
by Gringo (stargazing camel at aoldotcom) on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 03:21:48 PM EST
[ Parent ]
The Brits, at least. (Chips = fries). See Chip Butty.
by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 03:29:20 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Huh. No, not that. I haven't heard of THAT abomination... though, it looks less bad than crisp sandwitch.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 03:43:01 PM EST
[ Parent ]
The horror! The horror!...

"Ce qui vient au monde pour ne rien troubler ne mérite ni égards ni patience." René Char
by Melanchthon on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 06:29:20 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Anglo-Saxons!

Crisp sandwich - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A crisp sandwich (in British English), chip sandwich, or potato chip sandwich (in North American English) is a sandwich which includes crisps (potato chips) as one of the fillings. In addition to the crisps, the other ingredients may be peanut butter, meat, cheese, tuna, ham, bologna, tomato, or any other common sandwich ingredient. While some people consider crisp sandwiches to be a low-end food,[1] there is at least one celebrity who admits to eating them.[2] Some people consider a sandwich without crisps to not be worth the effort.[3] Potato chip sandwiches are sometimes referred to as "white trash cuisine" or "trailer park cuisine".[4]

I can't recall when I first read of it, though I recall the shock; later I got a confirmation from an American relative who regularly ate it himself.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 03:39:51 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I can't recall when I first read of it, though I recall the shock

Actually, just after posting I managed to recall it. I didn't read but heard it the first time, too, from someone who went for a summer work as youth camp overseer to Massachusetts. So it is probably spread well beyond trailer park land.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 03:48:21 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I see lettuce and mayonaise is missing.
by de Gondi (publiobestia aaaatttthotmaildaughtusual) on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 06:32:23 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I'd never heard of either a crisp or chip (FF) sandwiches.  Now the cucumber sandwich, I discovered in GB and do like.  A peanut butter sandwich is to die for with either chocolate or jelly/jam/preserves.

I can swear there ain't no heaven but I pray there ain't no hell. _ Blood Sweat & Tears
by Gringo (stargazing camel at aoldotcom) on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 10:31:00 PM EST
[ Parent ]
  Ya gotta be careful about believing everything you hear about food.

   Many years ago, some friends of mine and I decided to have some fun with a newly-arrived (to the U.S.) foreign guest student.  Our plan was very simple.  We were going to explain that, in America, people generally ate Chee-tohs (tm) [Frito-Lay's brand] cheese crisps with everything ---at breakfast, lunch and dinner---except, of course, in certain snobbish fancy places or where they had some reason to depart from their usual customs, as when, for example, many natives might shy from admitting to a foreign visitor the virtually universal practice of having Chee-tohs with everything.   Hence, we were letting the visitor in on the inside dope, which otherwise he might not discover without our help.

   And, of course, we made sure to have plenty of Chee-tohs on hand and to eat them with everything, till our scheme was exploded.

"In the interest of democracy, repressive actions were taken; In order to preserve democracy, repressive actions were taken"

by proximity1 (proximity1-at-free-dot-fr---end-o'adresss) on Wed Oct 28th, 2009 at 03:43:44 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Wiener Schnitzel? - which might have originated in Milan (according to Wikipedia?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiener_Schnitzel
by PeWi on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 11:03:33 AM EST
Yep. Milan was once Austrian.
by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 11:37:48 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Wiener Schnitzel - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Due to the strong Austrian influence of the Austro-Hungarian era, Wiener schnitzel is very popular in Hungary, known as bécsi szelet[4] (Viennese slice), borjú bécsi (Viennese veal) or rántott hús (breaded meat).
by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 11:42:33 AM EST
[ Parent ]
This is only my hypothesis, but I believe the name rántott hús (breaded meat) was spread to replace the equivalent bécsi szelet (Viennese slice) in communist times, with bécsi szelet having a partial comeback in restaurants (it has a classier sound) since 1989. (Either way, it is usually served with french fries rather than the potato salad of the Viennese original.)

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 03:40:30 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Quite popular in Germany also. Used to be my favorite and I miss it a lot.
I've been in the US of A for 30 years now and I've seen some horrific food choices, but I've never seen anyone eat a chip sandwich with peanut butter! I would not be responsible for....
 

The truth will set you free, but first it will piss you off. Gloria Steinem
by mint julep on Tue Oct 27th, 2009 at 12:36:03 PM EST
[ Parent ]
How French is French Toast?
by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 11:46:46 AM EST
is crème anglaise?

In the long run, we're all dead. John Maynard Keynes
by Jerome a Paris (etg@eurotrib.com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 11:52:59 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Definitely is, under the name custard, though mostly it's prepared with powder from a packet in Britain today.

Years ago I had the privilege of being invited to eat in a farmhouse in the Aveyron, (southern part of the Massif Central) and the grandmother (probably born in the 19C) served a cream with apple pie for the dessert. It was exactly like (real) custard or crème anglaise. But she identified it as the local speciality crème aveyronnaise.

by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 12:32:50 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Aveyron is notorious for its delicious dishes: duck confit (as in neighboring Périgord), aligot (potatoes & cheese),...  

A trifle on the high side of the ol' calories counter though...

Europeans think a hundred miles is a long way. Americans think a hundred years is a long time.

by Bernard on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 01:20:01 PM EST
[ Parent ]
the Cantalou (where the meetup took place) has a good sample of cuisine from there. Their aligot is wonderful, as are their meats (Aubrac, usually).

And indeed calorie-rich!

In the long run, we're all dead. John Maynard Keynes

by Jerome a Paris (etg@eurotrib.com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 02:40:06 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Hm, interesting. Reading up on it, it's the same thing (save for the floating meringue) called "canary bird milk" in Vienna and just "bird milk" in Budapest.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 03:27:00 PM EST
[ Parent ]
No, with floating meringue it's called île flottante in French. The "cream" itself is the fairly thick liquid part.

See Wikipedia, crème anglaise.

by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 03:46:33 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Or perhaps you mean "canary bird milk" has floating meringue?
by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 03:48:08 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Yep.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 03:49:24 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Ah, here it is on Wikipedia.

Floating island (dessert) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A floating island is a European dessert consisting of "islands" of meringue floating in a "sea" of Crème anglaise. In French cuisine Ile flottante, Polish cuisine Zupa Nic, Austrian cuisine Kanarimilch (High German Schnee-Eier), in the Hungarian cuisine, Madártej.[1] Similar recipes are known in the Southeastern Europe, mainly Vojvodina and East Croatia, under the name Schneenockerln or šnenokle. It is prepared from whipped egg whites, whose chunks are briefly cooked, and then scuttled into vanilla-flavored custard cream.

In French cuisine, oeufs à la neige is often used interchangeably with île flottante. The difference between the two dishes is that île flottante consists of one large "island," whereas oeufs à la neige consists of multiple separate pieces of meringue floating on the crème anglaise.[1]

A similar dessert in Romanian and Moldovan cuisine is called lapte de pasăre (literally "bird's milk"--not to be confused with the similarly named Polish confectionery ptasie mleczko or Russian confectionery птичье молоко, ptichye moloko).



*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 03:51:10 PM EST
[ Parent ]
There may be some (very) vague relation with "pain perdu" (wasted bread), a recipe used back in the days when food (especially bread!) was not to be wasted.

I remember my puzzlement when faced with "French toast" during my first trip to the United States (that and French dressing).

Europeans think a hundred miles is a long way. Americans think a hundred years is a long time.

by Bernard on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 01:15:17 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Steak americaine in Belgium is steak tartare...

French dressing.

Does Macedonian salad have anything to do with the FYOM?

by gk (g k quattro due due sette "at" gmail.com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 11:53:06 AM EST
In Portugal, something very similar to that "French Salad" (same thing minus the apple, and sometimes with sliced boiled egg) is called "Russian Salad".
(Russian Salad also became slang for when you make a mess by mixing stuff up that makes little sense.)
by Torres on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 12:31:06 PM EST
I can confirm that something that looks a lot like the picture in the diary is a frequent occurrence on Russian tables...

In the long run, we're all dead. John Maynard Keynes
by Jerome a Paris (etg@eurotrib.com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 02:42:51 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Heh. In Budapest, there is a "Russian salad", too; but it contains sliced meat and potato in a tartar-like sauce.

However, the salads denoted "Russian salad" have a great variation just within Hungarian-speaking areas: different meats included, extra vegetables included, fish included. (I was only aware of the variation in meat and the non/inclusion of cucumber, but now saw the full extent when I did a recipe search...)

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 04:04:16 PM EST
[ Parent ]
TBG's law of food nomenclature -> food always sounds more appealing with a foreign name. [1]

[1] Unless it's Australian.

by ThatBritGuy (thatbritguy (at) googlemail.com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 01:16:03 PM EST
Unless it's Australian

As Crocodile Dundee himself said "you can live on it, but it tastes like shit"

keep to the Fen Causeway

by Helen (lareinagal at yahoo dot co dot uk) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 01:39:08 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Not true.

Australian Homemade is a Dutch company selling premium chocolates and ice cream. The company choose "Australian" to appeal to a younger audience then the tradition Belgian and Dutch chocolatiers.

By the way, the chocolates are delicious.

by Bas on Wed Oct 28th, 2009 at 04:08:29 PM EST
[ Parent ]
A common error is to think french in french fries has to do with France or the French. It comes from the verb - to french, having two meaning in food preparation, according to Webster's.

  1. to trim the meat from the end of the bone of (a rib chop).

  2. to cut into long, thin slices before cooking.

So, it looks like french fries are being frenched before cooking. :-)
by Fran (fran at eurotrib dot com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 01:45:28 PM EST
I guess Freedom Fries would then mean shredded.

Skennah Kowa
by Crazy Horse on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 04:43:02 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Explosively disassembled I would have thought.

If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate.
by ceebs (ceebs (at) eurotrib (dot) com) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 04:45:40 PM EST
[ Parent ]
waterboarded
by de Gondi (publiobestia aaaatttthotmaildaughtusual) on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 07:01:46 PM EST
[ Parent ]
You include "french fries" in a discussion of food??? I realize that they constitute 1/4 (according to wikipedia) of the American vegetable diet, but still!

Of course, McDonald's makes the best fries. They taste good (all ingredients not clearly stated), are consistent (careful control of manufacturing), are served hot (small batches in the fryer), and are surprisingly long--a 10 cm specimen is typical. The downside, from the supplier viewpoint:

KIMBERLY, Idaho (AP)--From the fields of Idaho to tasting rooms in suburban Chicago, potato farmers, researchers and industry representatives are in the midst of an elusive hunt: finding a new spud for McDonald's french fries.

A decade has passed since the fast-food giant last added a new U.S. potato variety to three others approved for its golden fries, something that both irks and motivates potato researchers who hope their progeny will be next.

Because McDonald's buys more than 3.4 billion pounds of U.S. potatoes annually, it has the power to dictate whether a variety sprouts or winds up in the less-lucrative supermarket freezer's crinklecut bin--or worse yet, banished to become dehydrated taters.

"It's a card game where McDonald's holds nine-tenths of the cards,'' said Jeanne Debons, the Potato Variety Management Institute's director.

The institute was established in 2005 by the Idaho, Oregon and Washington potato commissions to handle licensing and royalties from new potatoes developed at universities and federal research facilities in the three states.

An unwritten ambition: to get new potato varieties looked at by McDonald's.

The company still relies on the Russet Burbank for many of its fries, even though this 130-year-old variety takes an eternity to mature, gulps water and falls victim to rots and other diseases, meaning farmers must douse it in chemicals. Socially conscious investors want McDonald's to help cut pesticides to protect the environment and farmworker health.

Still, coming up with a spud stud is no mean feat. One of the last varieties McDonald's tested, the Premier Russet, has a pedigree that on paper resembles the lineage of a thoroughbred race horse, with ancestors like the buff-skinned Penobscot of Maine. The company decided it was an also-ran.

"It has a smaller starch cell,'' Mitch Smith, McDonald's agricultural products director, recalls of tasters' conclusions about the Premier. "You get a smoother texture, it does affect the way it eats.''

Other U.S. potato-growing regions are also on the case. In July, researchers and industry reps meeting in Sturgeon Bay, Wis., home of the U.S. Potato Gene bank, discussed new sustainable varieties--to help "McDonald's to advertise that potatoes they serve are produced with less chemical and water input,'' said Chuck Brown, of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.


http://www.hpj.com/archives/2009/oct09/oct12/0924MCDfriesholygrailforpot.cfm
by asdf on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 02:15:08 PM EST
They taste good (all ingredients not clearly stated), are consistent (careful control of manufacturing), are served hot (small batches in the fryer), and are surprisingly long--a 10 cm specimen is typical.

Personally, I don't like McDonalds french fries that much: at least where I ate it, it was always over-salted (which I assumed was an intentional trick to get consumers to buy more soft drinks).

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.

by DoDo on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 03:33:06 PM EST
[ Parent ]
IMO the best fries are quite thick and cooked hot enough that they don't soak in oil. Crisp outside, soft inside. McD's fries taste salty to me and very fatty. Although it's rare I eat them these days now my daughters have grown up a bit.

You can't be me, I'm taken
by Sven Triloqvist on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 05:34:23 PM EST
[ Parent ]
The salt is applied by hand in a poorly controlled fashion. I suspect that it varies quite a bit--which is surprising.
by asdf on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 07:06:36 PM EST
[ Parent ]
There are two incidents in the last few years of McDonalds flavoring their fries with additives, among them wheat and dried milk, but most famously some kind of beef based flavor in India was discovered. For Hindus and Vegetarians, Surprise in McDonald's Fries

There was another incident that included dried blood as an additive, but the battery is going and so I must post this without the citation.

Never underestimate their intelligence, always underestimate their knowledge.

Frank Delaney ~ Ireland

by siegestate (siegestate or beyondwarispeace.com) on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 07:36:11 PM EST
[ Parent ]
It's not really a misnomer, but the American tourist scene from Fawlty Towers seems appropriate here.
by santiago on Sun Oct 25th, 2009 at 09:30:03 PM EST
Oh, my second-most favourite scene after the "Don't mention the war!" one.

*Traitor*, n.
A benighted individual who perceives an illusory distinction between serving his nation and abetting the criminals who govern it.
by DoDo on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 05:45:03 AM EST
[ Parent ]
In the Netherlands there is such a thing as "Huzaren salade" which seems to translate to "Hussar salad".

The ingredients sound suspiciously similar to those in the "French Salad" in Hungary - although the Dutch consequently add (cheap) meat to it (which is probably the reason why I never managed to really like it...)

The Dutch Wikipedia page links to the English version which calls it... Russian salad.

There's probably no end to this.

by Nomad on Mon Oct 26th, 2009 at 06:01:53 AM EST
A German cake called Holländer Torte (Dutch cake), I never have seen it in the Netherlands.
by Bas on Wed Oct 28th, 2009 at 04:12:03 PM EST


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