Some light relief

by Ted Welch
Thu Apr 30th, 2009 at 12:08:33 PM EST

Sunday and Monday were two days of almost continuous rain, rare for Nice, the observatory was not the usual bright, white dome etched on blue:

a-obsev-rain-2959

Tuesday the blue sky and brilliant light were back:

bluesky-hotel-camelias-2962

So I felt like walking again - in the old town:


drying-blue-sky-s-2966


a-rest-old-nice-3000

It's a bit like Montmartre, with an artistic tradition:

atelier2-oldnice-s-2979


The house which used to belong to a local poet:

housenissart-poet-2971

There's a cultural centre with an art course for kids:

cult-centre-old-nice-2982

But the "artists' corner" is for sale or rent, expression isn't entirely "libre":

coin-des-artistses-sale-2969

Today you can study to be a cyberjournalist - and sport has become such big business it has its own journalism course:

cyber-journo-2993

Monument to Catherine Segurane:

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Catherine Ségurane (Catarina Ségurana in the Niçard dialect of Provençal) is a folk heroine of the city of Nice, France who is said to have played a decisive role in repelling the city's siege by Turkish invaders allied with Francis I ... in the summer of 1543. ... Jean Badat, a historian who stood witness to the siege, made no mention of her involvement in the defense ... Nevertheless, the legend of Catherine Ségurane has excited the local imagination ... In 1923, a bas-relief monument to Catherine was erected near the supposed location of her feat.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siege_of_Nice


Cf.:

It is not necessarily a true history, but as Ford says in The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance, "when the legend becomes truth, print the legend".

http://archive.sensesofcinema.com/contents/directors/02/ford.html


In the street named after her, Rue Segurane, Nietzsche spent his first winter in Nice:

a-nietzsche-plaque-2985


Letter from Nice

   "I've tested Munich, Florence, Genoa - but nothing suits my old head like this Nice ... At all events, I am told that the summer here is more refreshing than at any place in the interior of Germany (the evenings with sea breeze, the nights cool). The air is incomparable, the strength it gives one (and also the light that fills the sky) not to be found anywhere else in Europe.

   Finally I should mention that one can live here cheaply, very cheaply, and that the place is large enough in scope to permit every degree of concealment to a hermit. The altogether select things of nature, such as the forest paths on the closest hill, or on the St. Jean Peninsula, I have all to myself. Similarly the entire Promenade (about a forty-five minute walk) is splendidly free, inasmuch as people visit for only a few hours during the day
. . .
   One is so 'un-German' here: I can't emphasize that strongly enough."

Letter to Heinrich Köselitz, November 24, 1885

http://www.press.uchicago.edu/Misc/Chicago/452786.html

Tomorrow we're off to Rapallo, and last night I discovered that Nietzsche had stayed there too:

castle-in-rapallo

Zarathustra comes to Rapallo

   "The following winter [1882-83] I lived near that charming, quiet bay that intervenes between Chiavari and the foothills of Portofino, the Bay of Rapallo, not far from Genoa.
...
   In the morning I would ascend in a southerly direction along the splendid road that leads high up to Zoagli, a road that passes through pines and offers a view far out over the sea. In the afternoon, when my health permitted, I would walk around the entire Bay of Santa Margherita and over the hills all the way to the tip of Portofino. . . . On these two paths, the first entire part of Zarathustra, and above all the figure of Zarathustra himself as a type, came to me. Or, rather, he overcame me." Ecce Homo

http://www.press.uchicago.edu/Misc/Chicago/452786.html

Rapallo diary next week.

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Legendary amplification is even more strongly suggested by Catarina's surname Segurana, from segur, meaning "sure, safe, secure" (same root). See Montsegur, Mount Sure, at the other end of the Occitan-speaking area, the fortress no one could take (until they did during the final phases of the Albigensian Crusade).

Great photos, thanks!

by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Thu Apr 30th, 2009 at 02:58:54 PM EST
Lovely pictures, thanks. Especially welcome after a couple of days of gloom and rain.
by Mnemosyne on Thu Apr 30th, 2009 at 09:58:35 PM EST
seconded.

your blend of history, great music shots, (in other diaries) and your love for your new home shine through your diaries lately with special strength.

when i see the words, 'a walk in the old town' i get ready for some beautiful art, and some fascinating nuggets of philosophy as a bonus.

great stuff!

"Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do." Jim Hightower

by melo (melometa4(at)gmail.com) on Tue May 5th, 2009 at 08:13:04 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Thanks for the very nice comments. We were away in Rapallo at the weekend and then I was working on the photos and some text for that - and now it's Thurs already !

Maybe it's because I'm a Londoner - that I moved to Nice. Blog - Nice Experience
by Ted Welch (tedwelch-at-mac-dot-com) on Thu May 7th, 2009 at 10:53:05 AM EST


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