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by Ted Welch ![]()
Saorge is a very beautiful medieval village perched along a narrow rock spur that juts out into the Vallée de la Roya, high above the river. Saorge is classed as one of the "40 most beautiful villages of France". A visit to this village included a monastery, and a coincidence of dates led to reflections on how the Catholic Church treated Galileo and Giordano Bruno. Another coincidence of timing allowed us to witness a VE Day commemoration ceremony in a nearby village and an article about the WW2 experience of an American's father echoed our feeling that we ought to celebrate life.
Promoted by Migeru. Fold moved here for the FP. -- Jérôme Read more... (9 comments, 1808 words in story) by Ted Welch
Comments >> (10 comments) by Ted Welch
Recently, exploring the area NE of Nice, we ended up at La Turbie, high above Monaco. Later exploration of the background to a famous monument there once again led to some surprising links with present-day politics.
As we walked through the village, we had to pass through a group of mourners in a street outside a church - nobody was taking photos and neither did I. It was a lovely day, which somebody couldn't enjoy any longer. La Turbie's main claim to fame is a grander reminder of mortality - La Tropheé des Alpes - its ruins dominating the village http://www.beyond.fr/villphotos2/turbieP01.html
One might have thought we might have learned some lessons in all that time, but exploring the background to this monument reveals remarkable parallels with today, and that some politicians go on making some of the same mistakes, due to similar arrogance and ignorance. Promoted by Migeru Read more... (21 comments, 2019 words in story) by Ted Welch
Another of those intruiging little coincidences; the other night I read this anecdote about Sarte's excitement on hearing about how you could apply phenomenology even to things like apricot cocktails. (It was in "Twentieth-Century French Philosophy", Alan D. Schrift, but this is from a different source to save me typing it):
The next day I read this in the NYT, in a report on the recent, growing popularity of philosophy in US universities:
Philosophy! Uh, yeah, what is it good for? - Promoted by Migeru HTML, what is it good for? Lazy linking corrected; all diarists, please don't be lazy! DoDo Read more... (28 comments, 1605 words in story) by Ted Welch
March 2008
Having "done" Venice - http://homepage.mac.com/tedwelch/venice and Florence - http://www.eurotrib.com/story/2008/1/24/20310/9033 , this time we went to Bologna, Ferrara and Rimini. M in Piazza Maggiore, Bologna. "La rossa" I'd been to Bologna a couple of times already and I like it that it's not for us, i.e. tourists. The city is quite prosperous and was run by communists for many years, who focused on the needs of the citizens. Collective attitudes and values permeated the culture; I remember visiting a photo exhibition there and, instead of the usual displays of individualism, it was a group project on aspects of the city - solidarity comrades. Read more... (7 comments, 2249 words in story) by Ted Welch
More great journalism from Greg Palast, no confusing objectivity with impartiality for him; instead he states the damning facts - without the "on the other hand - Exxon denies it all" of so much mainstream journalism. He also connects the dots. I strongly recommend reading the whole article:
Nice guys. But, hell, they were right, weren't they? Read more... (3 comments, 708 words in story) by Ted Welch
We were asked for more European diaries - here's one about our trip to Florence, about the beginnings of the financial system which has got us in such a mess today, the brutal politics which we also still see today - oh - and art.
I read Tim Parks' excellent "Medici Money" after our visit and it illuminated much of what we'd seen and showed its links to our world today:
Cf.:
It's also a reminder about what things are like when people who take religion seriously get into power. Of course many used religion for political purposes, but religion helped them get and hold power and the imposition of religious views as such led to much horrible suffering and death.
Diary rescue by afew Read more... (11 comments, 3019 words in story) by Ted Welch
Here are some attacks on religion by comedians, well worth half an hour. Please don't tell me that they won't persuade the religious to change their minds - they KNOW and THEY DON'T CARE. Because they so obviously don't care and are so rude on TV, they encourage the non-religious to be similarly disrespectful about absurdities and to stand up for their own views, as Dawkins and Hitchens do in their own ways. This is particularly worth encouraging in the bizarrely religious US and can help the recent growth in the numbers of the non-religious there (still a long way to go).
But anyway - I hope you find it amusing. Read more... (16 comments, 745 words in story) by Ted Welch
a Lazy quick diary on smoking.
Oh joy, I just did a tour of cafes/bars in Nice - and what do you know - the French ARE respecting the ban. You can go into a bar, sample wines, if that's your thing, and NOT have some smoking cretin beside you ruin the experience.
Read more... (7 comments, 455 words in story) by Ted Welch
(to put it politely), or why I lost patience with those so impatient with Dawkins that they can't even be bothered to consider seriously what he actually writes and says.
Here, especially for Twank, is a brief summary: Dawkins is not the "strident" "asshole" he's sometimes made out to be; actually he is, as "someone" said, reasonable and amusing. He doesn't expect to change the minds of very committed Christians so he doesn't need the "faith (sic)" attributed to him by TBG, rather he has the quite reasonable aims of helping some people to clarify their ideas, and others to be more ready to speak up for the atheist views they actually hold. The feedback to him during book tours and to his site suggests that he's been successful in this with many people. What he's opposing isn't primarily well-meaning, non-dogmatic Christians, but the very powerful, more fundamentalist representatives of Christianity (particularly in the US), Islam and other religions. However, he argues, and it's a reasonable point of view, that moderate Christians lend credibility to even the more extreme forms - it's all a matter of faith. Dawkins, Hitchens, et al continue a noble tradition of outspoken atheism, necessary at a time when religions like Islam and Christianity have dangerous fanatical elements, in the US the latter has gained a lot of political power. We should applaud those who stand up and deplore this dangerous superstition - as Nietzsche did in his time.
Read more... (150 comments, 5511 words in story) by Ted Welch
Criticism of US journalism does not just come from the Left, of course; many in the US see the mainstream media as too Leftist - bizarre as that probably seems to most Eurotribbers.
Diary rescue by Migeru Read more... (53 comments, 3481 words in story) by Ted Welch Quick enthusiastic diary - films galore! After the proposal to have a film blog on Eurotrib I went to the local Fnac (which sells TVs, cameras, software, books, DVDs, etc.) - and was amazed at what seemed to be the suddenly much greater the range of DVDs on offer. Of course it's just before xmas, so companies want to get more stuff on the shelves - but what variety there is now !What a period to be a film student, if a reasonably solvent one - but, for the price of an evening's drinks (for a Brit), one can buy a film masterpiece with a making-of documentary and the director's commentary. Companies are realising what saleable goods they have in their archives and now all sorts of collections are on offer, films of certain stars : John Wayne (and let's not sneer, he's been in some John Ford classics, e.g. The Searchers), directors, Hitchcock, Bergman, etc. An example of this new availability is Ridley Scott's Blade Runner. Read more... (35 comments, 1427 words in story) by Ted Welch
On Friday at about lunch-time I wandered into Nice's old town and came across this scene:
It reminded me of the "What is it?" subject sometimes used in the Friday photo-blog - I had no idea what this was all about. Interesting collage - diary rescue by Migeru Read more... (9 comments, 1892 words in story) by Ted Welch Warning: Another long piece :-) - but the issue merits it - and, like Gore, I have adopted a "kaizen" approach (see below), and given the bits on design, I've tried to include lots of relevant images - so it's taken a long time. I hope you get to the end - and that, in the end, we all survive!We went to see "An Inconvenient Truth" at the Mercury Cinema (echoes of Orson Welles?) in Nice, which was followed by a discussion organised by a Cafe Cine group. In the title of my diary on Stone's film "Wall Street" I said that greed was glamourous and deadly. In this case we come to the truly deadly consequences of greed. Diary rescue by Migeru [editor's note, by Migeru] Picture resized and moved to the margin and fold inserted here for the front page.
Read more... (49 comments, 4570 words in story) by Ted Welch A while ago I thought the streets I lived in were telling me something ( my "Haunted by Philosophers" diary), now it seems as if I'm getting messages from the media. Don't worry - I think I'm OK. :-) Recently I bought the DVD of Oliver Stone's "Wall Street" and showed it to Montserrat, who was mildly interested. I still found it quite powerful. I thought I might write about it, linking it to the current crisis brought on by the "greed is good" credo. A few days later "Wall Street" was shown on French TV - surely it's a sign! :-) Then the media were full of stories about Merrill Lynch's problems, a current film review spoke about the dangers of glamourising villains - finally I'm writing it, before the gods punish me for ignoring their encouragement. The script by Stone and Stanley Wieser is excellent and Gekko is given a lot of good lines. As one critic put it:
Wall Street trailer:
The "greed is good" slogan was an improvement on Ivan Boesky's "Greed is all right, by the way."
One of the things I especially like about DVDs is the fact that you can get so many extras with them; documentaries on the making of the film, and the commentaries, especially by the director - often a little film school in itself. In the "Wall Street" commentary, Stone is at pains to explain that all they took from Boesky, in the "greed is good" speech was his "greed is all right". All the rest was original. Despite this some critics, who make it clear that they have listened to Stones's subsequent DVD commentary (or so they say) repeat the allegation which irritates him, e.g.:
Stone also points out that the speech is more complex than it's often taken to be, and that he agrees with much of it. He was objecting to criticism like this, by Rita Kempley:
In fact there is ambivalence throughout the film; while Stone is clearly rather appalled by people like Gekko, he is also clearly fascinated by him, and it's no surprise that this glamourous villain earned Michael Douglas a best actor Oscar. Stone is on the side of Martin Sheen, who plays the union leader and father to Bud, played by Martin Sheen's real-life son, Charlie. But Gekko gets most of the best lines. However Stone wasn't too happy with the way Douglas was delivering them at the beginning of shooting and had a few hard words with him. He also made him do many retakes until he got angry, which clearly had the desired effect - Douglas got his Oscar. But, in becoming more dynamic and charismatic, Douglas/Gekko adds complexity and ambivalence to the general moral thrust of the film. The glamour of bad guys is a constant problem for film-makers who are supposed to be condemning them, cf. this review of current release "American Gangster":
Stone did not want it to be a simple condemnation of Wall Street, after all his father had worked on Wall Street for decades. But that was another era and Stone says that while there was some corruption, there were still some principles involved and it was more of a gentlemen's club. The mentor to Bud, Lou Mannheim, played by Hal Holbrook, was based on Stone's father. Stone recorded the commentary years after making the film (in 1987), and, understandably, he used the opportunity to answer some of his critics. Thus some had complained that the Holbrook character spoke in an unrealistically aphoristic way, e.g.:
However, (apart from the fact that this is fiction not journalism) Stone maintains that this was the way his father used to speak. In fact his father used to write a newsletter about Wall Street which was translated into many languages. Sadly Stone's father died while the film was being made and Stone dedicated it to his memory. Bud, like the character played by Charlie Sheen in Stone's earlier film "Platoon", is torn between two father figures, in this case his own (in the film and real life) and Gekko. Ironically Gekko has become a hero for young Wall Street traders as depicted in the more recent film "The Boiler Room":
"Boiler Room" trailer:
Again this over-simplifies "Wall Street" somewhat, as Stone wouldn't really disagree with that conclusion. Even more recently British City traders have been the subject of a study by a young artist and again there are very conscious echoes of "Wall Street":
Cf.:
But now we are seeing once again the results of the "greed is good" ideology, with no redeeming principles to channel it and when there is inadequate regulation, and they are quite frightening:
But even when they screw up, the greedy make obscene amounts:
But then it's not hard to achieve that if you choose the people who decide how much you get:
As Stone emphasised, there was much he agreed with in Gekko's "Greed is good" speech, e.g. Gekko condemned this kind of rapacious cronyism:
Gekko also pointed out the general economic problems facing the US - which have got worse since the 80s and after Bush's disastrous regime:
There are plans to do an update, but without Stone as director:
But with the current dire warnings about the global economy, perhaps this will not be the time to bring out another film glorifying greed.
As the hero of another recent film would say: "Good night, and good luck." Comments >> (23 comments) by Ted Welch
Why write a diary when you can use striking writers to do it ? :-) I have added some bits from the links supplied on their site.
Comments >> (27 comments) by Ted Welch
An almost perfect day
It helps if you start your day in Nice - blue skies yet again and the September sun is getting less fierce and more friendly. L'art de bien vivre Healthy ! But not even a coffee to start the day - I was to have another medical check-up. The specialist was a big, jovial guy and we got talking about beer and wine and putting on weight when you stay in Normandy with rain for most of two weeks. Everything OK, he said - a good start. I went with Montserrat to do some shopping and then for a coffee on a terrasse, very pleasant - the weather in Nice now down to comfortable warmth for me. After 45 mins we went back to get the images and report. All very efficient, easy to arrange and reasonable - but I don't have to pay anyway (well a very reasonable top-up insurance). Sicko By coincidence M had noticed that Michael Moore's Sicko had just opened at the Rialto in VO, i.e. English for me and French sub-titles for her - and it was on this afternoon at about 2pm. So we had time to stroll back in the sun, have a lunch in the apartment, and then walk over to the Rialto for the film. It was almost a private showing - there was ONE guy when we arrived ! (I'm sure they get better audiences in the evenings). It's not that I'm a misanthrope (really ) but I usually seem to get loud munchers or seat pushers near me. What a film ! I'll write a review of it - but it WILL have you laughing and crying - outraged, informed.and amused. It should be shown on major TV channels in the US every week; the making of profits from keeping people ill and killing them through denial of treatment is an outrageous scandal - some very rich people should be locked up for a very long time. We laughed at the Guantanomo bit, and were tearful over the treatment of those who worked at the 9/11 site in a Cuban hospital. As the lights came up we both wiped our eyes - and smiled. What an experience - if only more people made films like this. Of course one can nit-pick and the US right have done their best to discredit it.- but there is no denying the main and shocking facts. Even the credits are laced with humourous touches and at the end there's "Do something". He's certainly shown what a difference one determined individual can make, now aided by quite a team. It demonstrates powerfully what's wrong with the US version of capitalism and its terrible effects on so many Americans. Moore's Canadian cousins wouldn't even risk one day in the US without medical insurance. Serendipity on the beach We emerged into the sunshine and strolled the few meters to the Promenade des Anglais, SO glad to live in France - which gets very favourable treatment in the film. Then down to the nearest beach cafe - the Neptune - sun for M and some shade for me - with a view of the very blue sea. While M was away with her makeup bag, a couple passed by and sat at the other end of the cafe, almost facing me. Could it be ... surely not; it must be just some other guy who looks like him. M. returned and I asked her - yes, she confirmed, it WAS - my latest hero, the philosopher Michel Onfray !
In an earlier coincidence, it turned out that M's sister lives near Caen, not far away from Agentan where Onfray lives and we had stayed in her house for a couple of weeks recently. I had spoken to M about trying to arrange to see him while we were there, but never got around to doing anything about it. Now here he was, not just in Nice, but (to paraphrase Bogart in Casablanca) of all the beach cafes in the world, he walks into this one. It was too good an opportunity to miss, his female companion had also left for a while, and M. urged me to do it. So I went over, and, in my stumbling French, confirmed that he really was Onfray, explained that I too had studied philosophy, had been a lecturer and was left-wing. I said I had read his his encounter with Sarkozy and his commentary on it in his blog. I apologised when the woman returned for disturbing them, but she waved it away. I asked if it would be possible to talk some more another time, but they were leaving that day. I explained that M's sister had a place not far from him and that maybe if we visited her we could meet. He said yes and gave me his mobile phone number. I returned to M. who was very pleased for me, to hear that it had gone well, that I had been able to say what I wanted to and that I felt more motivated to improve my French. A while later they left, but he stepped over to say goodbye and hello to M. She told him I was a great fan and I added that so was she - though she's now a bit to the right of us. He patted me on the shoulder, smiled and left. I was in a happy daze and ordered another glass of champagne for M and another beer for me - despite our intention to cut down - this was already a very special day. Champagne socialist - L'Effervescence M. thought we might start walking back home, but I said we spent many evenings at home and who knows what the rest of the evening had in store for us - perhaps Chomsky was taking a vacation for once :-) We walked east, the warm, late afternoon sun on our backs and headed for the old town. I had heard about a new champagne bar - just the thing for M - I remembered the location and found it easily. We looked at the prices and thought it a bit expensive, 3 euros a glass more for the cheapest than the price in a beach cafe. But the young proprietor came out and started talking to us, so we decided to give it a try. The bar wasn't very inviting, small and rather bare, but he led us donstairs - another world, with a curved ceiling and rough walls and very low, red lights. M immediately gained his respect by clearly knowing about champagne (luckily, since a visit to England last year, she prefers beer most days) and has a relative who produces it. He explained that he had only started up a few months ago and did just about everything, serving, cooking, and said that with the drinks (I had a glass of red wine) we'd get some tapas-type amuse-bouche. I expected to be ejected when M let it be known that I tend to prefer Australian reds - but he told us that his brother lived in Australia and that he appreciated Australian wines, though he thought they were less complex in structure than French wines - ah yes, my thoughts exactly :-) He had worked in restaurants in New York for two years. I told him that we had just seen Sicko and urged him to see it if he had an afternoon free (well, Moore said, "Do something" - and I'm recommending you Eurotribbbers to see it too, and if you have already, go again and take some friends who haven't seen it). The little appetizers were delicious, even M was impressed and he was gratified by our praise and offered some more - so I ordered another round of drinks. We now have a new friend, Julien, the patron. For any single young guys visiting Nice, this would seem to be the place to go, there were two groups of young women and no guys. Perhaps, even for French guys, champagne bars aren't their thing. Also, a delight for me, as it's a basement there's no smoking, so the first group of three young French women, who were, of course, all smokers, left their bags and went upstairs for some cancer sticks. We thanked Julien and said we'd be back, then ambled down to Cours Saleya, the long open area packed with restaurants and sat outside in a temperature that was just OK for M with a cardigan on. Again I remarked on what a great day it had been. Sadly the day then rapidly fell from perfection into an argument - but I'm not Barbara, so I'll skip that and stay positive :-) We got over it. But it was very close to perfect: good news about my health, a great film with no irritations in the cinema, an amazingly coincidental and cordial encounter with someone I admire and had really wanted to meet, drinks by the Med under the usual intense blue sky with the lovely M, a new bar discovery, a meal in the open at night in the old town - what more could you ask of one day ?
So, have YOU had a perfect/almost perfect day recently - what made it so for you ? If not, what would be your perfect day ? Comments >> (11 comments) by Ted Welch
Recently we took a trip back in time, we went to the Fete Medievale in Cagnes sur Mer. In the afternoon there was a tournament, with jousting and hand-to-hand fights:
The kids in the audience loved it - was this encouraging aggression and sadism? Oh well, I played cowboys and Indians as a kid and I hate wars. However, this bit of escapism, into the era of chivalry and rescued damsels, has unfortunate connections with the current disaster in Iraq: Medieval militarism and European expansionism
After the tournament we strolled round the site which had examples of medieval crafts and products for sale -but also a fight school for kids, of both sexes: They were instructed to stay down once "killed", but some couldn't resist peeking as the last two standing battled it out: Some of the people strolling around were themselves in medieval costume, ready for the feast at Haut Cagnes, the medieval village above Cagnes sur Mer later: But of course the crafts included making weapons: Then it was time to catch the bus up to Haut Cagnes (while giving a young French woman a lesson in queuing etiquette, approved by a French guy) for the feast: It had period entertainment - at least this could be enjoyed without too many unfortunate associations: This is fun: Fire dance: But later, as I explored some medieval connections on the internet, I discover that re-enacting medieval fighting involves a million people around the world, many of them are Americans - who do it in what one might call a "shock and awe" style - or "full force" as they describe it.
This photo isn't the making of a Hollywood film, these American guys are about to attack each oher - just for the fun of it: Here is a short video of a "battle" - "full force": http://www.jubilex.com/movies/pennsic31/hadrian-1.mpg
The Iraq connection made explicit:
It's no surprise that such "full-force" fighting should be popular in the US; there is a lot of money to be made from encouraging an obsession with competitive sports, and some die on the sports field because of it:
Cf.:
Macho Finance
It's not surprising that this powerful "culture of sports" affects other areas of society:
Of course it's not just a question of biology, certain abilties or tendencies can be encouraged or discouraged in a culture. Thus, though it may have been quite macho for some time, the culture of financial services like hedge funds has changed recently to become even more macho:
We have just seen the latest example of the results of such a culture in the current financial crisis, where people were encouraged to take absurd risks in a highly competitive context. We need to move to a culture where people ask not only: "What's MY downside?" But also: "What's our collective downside - of this sort of culture/ideology?" After Iraq, New Orleans, the Minneapolis bridge and the financial crisis, perhaps even sports-crazed Americans weilding medieval maces for a fun weekend are going to demand more attention to the downside and provision for a better upside.
Comments >> (14 comments) by Ted Welch
The French, and especially their fonctionnaires, are often unfairly criticized. It's another one of those cultural myths, unfortunate memes. In general I have found that, surprise, surprise, they are quite reasonable and often pleasant and helpful - and so are some in business - even a lawyer! :-).
Yesterday we visited the dept which deals with international applicants for inclusion in the French health system. Fortunately M is organising this and so, instead of going to an office about three streets away - but where my documents would only be sent on to this specialised office some time later - we went up into the hills behind Nice to deliver the documents in person. It was a long way up, and a very nice, quiet environment. We were received very cordially by the woman in the office. Actually I think she might well have been happy to have visitors for a change (they usually just do admin rather than deal directly with people and I can't imagine many foreigners finding their way out to there). She quickly checked the documents, consulted a colleague in another office, carefully explained the process involved, and said that I'd be issued with a temporary number within a few days, entitling me to reclaim some medical expenses. Very helpful and reassuring. Unfortunately the more exasperating side of the French was on display as we left the building - about half a dozen young people were smoking - outside this L'assurance maladie building ! I still find it hard to believe just how prevalent smoking is here. But, then again, these bureaucratic buildings had names, not any old names but: Cezanne, Chagall, Cheret, Matisse, Picasso ! The French do appreciate culture and celebrate it in all kinds of ways. One area of Nice is known as Musiciens , the streets named after Berloiz, Paganini, Verdi, etc. A few years ago I got to know a French estate agent (yes, we know their reputation - especially in the UK) who turned out to be a very friendly guy, even after he realised that I would be unlikely to buy anything soon. He even insisted on paying for a meal. He'd actually told a guy who was quite ready to pay the asking price for a house that it was over-valued and he shouldn't pay that much ! When I met him a couple of years later, he was changing jobs and was doing up houses, something which he enjoyed a lot more, including some of the physical work. He had mentioned a local agency which was American-owned and didn't approve at all of the way it was run - they weren't even allowed enough time for a proper French lunch ! :-) A Nice lawyer Even more impressive was our recent visit to a lawyer here in Nice. They don't have a very good reputation, especially in the US, from where these jokes emanate:
How very different this lawyer was from the usual stereotype. We wanted advice on two issues, which she gave us, very fully, in French at a speed I could just about keep up with. But in addition to that we got the story of her life (she is half Italian,and fitted that stereotype, warm, expressive, etc .), some medical advice, her views about male/female differences in parental attitudes, etc., etc. She also typed out for me a form letter, indicating what I needed to include and telling me what was irrelevant. Then she refused any payment for this almost overwhelming torrent of advice and wisdom - AND told us that we didn't really need any further help from a notaire! So later I wrote her a note, my French corrected by M, and bought her a plant. I thanked her for all her help and wrote that one of the things I really like about French culture is that even in professional affairs there is still room for a humanity now often lacking in the Anglo-Saxon business world. I read somewhere about a French woman working in a bank who used to get a lot of satisfaction from her job, feeling that she had given customers good advice. But then it had been taken over by a company run in a more Anglo-Saxon way; targets for sales of their products were set and there were unpleasant interviews with managers if one didn't meet these targets. Let's hope that model doesn't take over in France. Arguably it would be better, even in a business sense (but not only that), if it didn't: European business model
Comments >> (37 comments) by Ted Welch
Maybe this has been referred to here already - anyway:
"First they ignore you..." - afew Read more... (82 comments, 1453 words in story)
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