The New Democracy government is no dictatorship. It is something far more ordinary, amorphous and insidious: a corrupt, incompetent administration with nothing left to offer its demoralized citizens. The summer before last it spectacularly failed to stop an inferno of forest fires; eighteen months later, little progress has been made with the rebuilding and reforestation. The government's only vision for an economically viable future is to sell what's left of the Greek landscape to developers. Ministers line their pockets with bribes and property deals--the latest involving major illegal land swaps for the Mount Athos Vatopedi Monastery.