Welcome to European Tribune. It's gone a bit quiet around here these days, but it's still going.
Northern coast, mostly (the Adriatic coast of Germany) : Velebit and northern Dalmatia.
We arrived through Austria and Slovenia near Rijeka, and visited a couple of islands of the north : Krk (where I managed to leave our passports behind) then Rab, which we liked very much :

Island-hopping :

Then Zadar, which had this interesting solar installation. We didn't stay until night, when it lights up...

The same artist, Nikola Bašić, also created the "sea organ" : the waves create sighing bass notes. Nice place to swim, too.

We headed inland to Obrovac in the southern Velebit. We got off the road to sleep, thinking we were far from anyone, but were woken by the jingling bells of a flock of sheep and the presumably caustic remarks of the shepherdess...

There was a monastery marked on the map called Krupa, so we went to have a look. It was obviously a feast day...

I had foolishly presumed that it was a Catholic institution, this being Croatia, but...

In Obrovac and surrounding villages, there were a high proportion of historically recent ruins.

Split was simply splendid:

In the foreground, a recreation of Diocletian's original palace/fortress, which comprises the centre of the city.

Our next stop-off was a worthy site of pilgrimage for renewable-energy freaks : the Krka national park, best visited by boat from Skradin :

is the site of the world's second AC hydro power station, which went into operation in 1895, two days after Niagara. Both were, of course, based on the work of local boy Nikola Tesla.

It is rightly acknowledged that people of faith have no monopoly of virtue - Queen Elizabeth II

by eurogreen on Sat Oct 12th, 2013 at 04:52:18 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Thank you for sharing...
This brings so many memories because for decades starting from my childhood toward the days of wars, we have spent almost every single summer on this coast(and mostly on Croatian coast all tho Montenegro coast is as beautiful as this one).
Croatians (and who can blame them) always preferred Germans as guests then us Serbs , because when it comes to accommodation it was different price for them then for us at the time and of course Germans had much more money to spend then us. That's why at some point when it became affordable for us ( prior to wars) we Serbs started to go to Greece. Greeks on the other hand were really , really friendly to us.Also we used this holiday as a shopping tour too so Greeks (especially northern) loved it because business was good too.
Yeah and those cities there in Croatia (Dubrovnik, Split, Zadar etc.) really have touch of history and that makes them even more interesting.
Last time I visited Belgrade I saw big billboard with add for summer holidays in Croatia. Writing was : " Come and (have a) holiday where your parents used to (have a holiday) holiday". Holiday being a verb in Serbian. Some joker changed the verb holiday to another verb which rimes with holiday and means "fought war". So it was " Come and have a holiday where your parents fought war". Everything become joke with time except for those who lost their lives or their loved ones...
I would like to see Dubrovnik one more time ( my daughter visited it few years ago) but my husband wouldn't step in Croatia ever again so I doubt we will visit ever...Who can blame him...he lost quite a few members of his larger family in these wars...  

Science without religion is lame, religion without science is blind...Albert Einstein
by vbo on Sat Oct 12th, 2013 at 09:47:10 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Damn... all places that bring back memories!

  • I was once on a round trip in the Kvarner Gulf by boat, and Rab was indeed the most beautiful stop.
  • On a summer holiday in my childhood, we crossed the Velebit Mountains north-east of Zadar on the old (unpaved) mountain pass road.
  • I spent two years in Zadar as a small child (while my father was working nearby). The closest memory is about a hundred metres to the right from where you made the photo at the Roman ruins: I mistook another adult for my father and got lost, but had the extreme luck that that adult and my family circled the same house block in the opposite direction and met again at the far corner shortly after I realised what happened.
  • I haven1t been to Zadar since the Sea Organ was built, but it's next to where the big cruise ships and the ferries to Italy moored, and we went by ferry on a trip to the long island in the background (Ugljan) several times.
  • Prior to Zadar, we lived for six months in... Obrovac! The town was/is roughly at the Serbo-Croatian ethnic border and was thus at the front between the unrecognised Republic of Serbian Krajina and Croatia. You getting off the road gives me the creeps: Croatian authorities claim that they de-mined the area 100%, but I wouldn't be so sure. (Last time I was there, prior to the completion of the de-mining, there was a forest fire left unchecked because fire-fighters feared the mines.)
  • So the war ruins are still there, but at least a lot of Serbs got back. A few years after the Croatian Reconquista (which involved chasing away the entire population), I saw entire ghost villages in what was Serbian Krajina.
  • I have few memories of Spit, but the more of the Krka National Park! More interesting that that Tesla power plant is what's right behind: Skradinski buk, a series of waterfalls with lush vegetation accessible by paths and staircases, the place I remember liking most in my early childhood. Did you walk in there or have you only seen it from the bottom?

I should visit these places again soon... but it's difficult without a car.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.
by DoDo on Sun Oct 13th, 2013 at 10:31:58 AM EST
[ Parent ]

... note the Venetian lion.

... and also of the Skradinski Buk, which we did walk around (also the excellent ecomuseum). But I had forgotten to charge the battery of my camera so I have frustratingly few photos :

It is rightly acknowledged that people of faith have no monopoly of virtue - Queen Elizabeth II

by eurogreen on Sun Oct 13th, 2013 at 06:13:52 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Thanks for these! Do you also have a photo near the bridge in Obrovac (in the opposite direction from your riverside photo)? (We lived in another four-level apartment building near there, and there was a small restaurant just below it across the street.)

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.
by DoDo on Mon Oct 14th, 2013 at 06:00:42 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I've got a couple more looking over the river

It is rightly acknowledged that people of faith have no monopoly of virtue - Queen Elizabeth II

by eurogreen on Wed Oct 16th, 2013 at 05:22:18 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Our apartment is unfortunately just outside your first photo. But thanks anyway: we saw this same river curve from the balcony (only from the opposite direction).

When we lived there, I was a small child. We lived on the top floor, and I used to throw toys down the balcony... don't remember why. I loved the river (the Zrmanja), which was used by medium-size ships and which runs in a canyon both before and after the town. One of my very first memories is a family trip upriver by inflatable boat(!).

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Tue Oct 22nd, 2013 at 04:56:38 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Well, we were in the area in order to go down the river in an inflatable boat... with a rafting outfit that runs two-seater pneumatic canoes in summer when the water is lower. The four-hour trip involved a lot of paddling on flat water, but also a lot of white-water amusement, walking around one major waterfall, and shooting over another with about a four-meter drop.

No photos of course, but I really ought to dig up the email of a German guy who did the trip with us, his teenage son had a strap-on adventure video camera which I would like to get the results from.

It is rightly acknowledged that people of faith have no monopoly of virtue - Queen Elizabeth II

by eurogreen on Mon Oct 28th, 2013 at 07:01:39 AM EST
[ Parent ]


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