I would gather it receives something, because the transfers are purely made on a population basis, whereas the taxes are still quite correlated to wealth and production.

Paris and the Ile de France are the clear losers here (but it's a bit complicated, because benefits are counted at the company's headquarters, usually in Paris, and not at the plant level).

And you forget that half the public expenses (so something around 25%GDP) in France are actually pensions and medical bills, which result in a transfer between young and productive people (Paris...) to unemployed, old or sick people (everywhere else).