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"Wall insulation, there is no way to improve it without ripping everything apart"

I used to blow cellulose insulation back in the day.  In most houses, you can put a hole in the bottom and the top of each bay and blow a wall full of cellulose fairly easily without much damage;  but you may have a special circumstance.

I found blowing cellulose to be a very meditative activity and enjoyed it a lot.

Solar IS Civil Defense

by gmoke on Mon Sep 13th, 2021 at 06:00:22 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Problem is if there is old fiberglass insulation already in there, especially if it was sloppily installed.

Many people here have converted their houses to stucco exteriors. Disregarding the sort of siding might be on there already, whether aluminum or vinyl or wood, they just staple on chickenwire and then put a layer of stucco on. It covers up all sorts of problems with rotting wood, broken or missing siding, etc.

But I am not so sure it does much to improve the insulating quality of the wall.

by asdf on Tue Sep 14th, 2021 at 10:36:01 PM EST
[ Parent ]
A blower door test, especially with an infrared camera to spot where heat loss is located, is a very good idea for anyone wanting to button up their domicile.

Solar IS Civil Defense
by gmoke on Wed Sep 15th, 2021 at 06:26:13 PM EST
[ Parent ]
As I demonstrated(above) not unlike pre-close home inspection and BMI caliper measurement.
by Cat on Wed Sep 15th, 2021 at 09:52:57 PM EST
[ Parent ]
asdf presents a scenario that most definitely is not addressed in current "best practice" sales or,say, EPA litchitchure. Besides ATTIC or CRAWL SPACE voids terminating interior elevation, the "economics" assume new construction, mostly open frame construction, without drywall or plaster barriers to Choices®. Sure, "experts" have implied vintage of (fiberglass) batting (if any) is OK but not optimal (barring "envelope" hazards, eg. water damage, pests, molds, lead, asbestos) Instead, go forth and "weatherize" windows! Go forth an replace windows! Or assume the ultimate retrofit--a new residence that meets or exceeds current LEEDS specification for builders!

Who pays for that?
well, I expect the GREEN NEW DEAL state to generously subsidize my maintenance of efforts.

As readers know, water damage provoked me to, ahem, explore the structural integrity of me home. I now know the minimum cost of three (3) strategically placed ("selective demo") rip-outs--ceiling of each floor, including a ground floor exterior wall slice between studs.

I've even priced a range of replacement windows (custom-size-because construction reality: 1997 vinyl to 2021 vinyl|fiberglass|aluminum +Features®) excluding labor, $800-$1600 each). There are nineteen (19) windows in this old house. I GUESS, I'll keep 'em. SOOOOoooo I just paid a carpenter $595 to repair exterior trim+caulk of one window, 28x42, leaking into interior floor/ceiling below. Oh. Look, hidden, moldy insulation! How do I get that out (without rip-out) in order to INJECT NEW! FRESH! Foam insulation everywhere but the party wall!

Existing stock v new construction
NAHB table, sales pr0n, Freddie Mac & the inventory < reckless eyeballin' > shortfall
This oversight has stymied two generations of the best homeowner (possibly slum landlord) intentions to retrofit, ahem, rather than purchase a new home conforming to current LEED specification, possibly taxable improvements devoid of "curb appeal".

by Cat on Wed Sep 15th, 2021 at 09:40:38 PM EST
[ Parent ]
What you gloss is not a DIY task for existing, vintage SFR and MFR housing or commercial buildings.

I don't know what "bay" means where you live, but I've had to educate myself in architectural and construction framing terms to prepare for RFPs. A "bay" is any opening in an exterior wall--windows and doors. The top of each bay is a structural member called a horz. "header" to which  carpenters attach an ext. wall panel enclosing vert. 16" spaced studs. Panel materials vary by spec; the salient point is the interior finish, eg. drywall panels or plaster lathes, enclosing voids between studs.

Likewise for each window, a wall panel encloses the voids between supporting studs above the header and below the sill to the sole plate. IF insulation has been placed in these intervals during construction, "blowing cellulose" after the fact through an ext. or int. hole at 16" intervals above and below each bay is nonsensical.

What cost/benefit strategy have "experts" proposed to rehabilitate such a physical dilemma for property owners and a growing number of private and public housing tenants, who want to realize "carbon neutral" benefits?

I'm all eyes and ears. Where is this material and financial support?

by Cat on Thu Sep 16th, 2021 at 04:34:16 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Cellulose = fire hazard

Yes, some of it is treated, but the treatment dissipates with time, leaving you with walls and ceiling ready to go up like a bonfire.

by StillInTheWilderness on Tue Oct 12th, 2021 at 01:25:03 AM EST
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