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Walking Through London (was 'Report from London')

by d52boy Thu Jul 7th, 2005 at 01:28:23 PM EST

We arrived late Wednesday night.

On Thursday morning we went around the corner from our hotel to have breakfast. It had rained the night before, the skies were cloudy, and there was a cool breeze.

I walked over to Waterloo Station and found that the Underground was closed due to "a power failure". It wasn't until I got back to the hotel that I learned of the bomb attacks, which as it happens were all north of the Thames, on the other side of the river from us.


We bought some time on the hotel's wireless internet connection so that we could get messages to friends and family, and watched the news reports on the BBC. When I saw Bush standing behind Blair, I began to get angry. Four years almost since September 11, and what has this man done to reduce the threat of terrorist attacks? Nothing. Instead, he has recklessly inflamed Arab opinion even further, he has created a terrorist training ground in Iraq, and he has still not brought Osama Bin Laden to justice. The man is a disgrace.

In the early afternoon we walked across Hungerford Bridge against an endless crowd of Londoners heading for Waterloo Station, hoping to find a train to take them home. By now the clouds had cleared, the sun shone brightly, the cool breeze continued: it looked and felt like the most beautiful spring afternoon of your dreams.

When we reached Charing Cross Station, the atmosphere became almost eerie. Very few cars on the streets, and no buses. Lots of pedestrians, but very little conversation. Every once in a while, a siren or a cluster of police and fire vehicles outside a tube station. At St. Martin's Place I looked up at the Edith Cavell monument and read the words "Sacrifice", "Fortitude", "Humanity".

As we walked up Charing Cross Rd., many shops were already closed, and most of the others were closing. Again, the near silence was disquieting, as was the lack of normal conversation among pedestrians. Lots of envious looks at the bicycle commuters. Lots of weary, footsore expressions on the faces of people who had to walk 2-3 kilometers just to get to a train station, not knowing what they would find there. Lots of cell phone conversations. "Yeah, we're heading down to look for a train, but so is everyone else, so I don't know."

We walked all the way up to Oxford Street. Most of the theatres had cancelled their performances. Almost all the shops were closed by 4:00 pm. As we walked down Regent Street, we saw the first buses back in service, packed with people. More taxis began to appear as well. At Leicester Square, the half-price ticket booth was closed, and the police were closing the park in the centre of the square. The pizza parlors were still open, but the streets were curiously quiet despite pockets of normal activity.

I couldn't help thinking how terrifying it would be to be an Arab in London today.

Now we're back in the hotel, watching the television news. Lots of eyewitness reports now. The stupidity, the senselessness of these attacks, of the needless deaths and injuries, overwhelm us. The perpetrators are vicious brutes. But the conditions in which vicious brutes are driven to such violence are to a great extent under the control of George Bush, and I cannot understand how he sleeps at night knowing that almost everything he has done and said since 2001 has increased the chances of more terrorist violence, instead of reducing them.

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I trust that everyone you know in London is safe and accounted for.  Since you're merely visiting the city now, and can provide something of an outsider's perspective, I would hope that you can continue to keep the EuroTrib community updated with your observations on how London is reacting and responding, in an organic sense, as you move around the city and interact with others.

I remember that Brooklyn was much in the same state in the immediate aftermath of 9-11.  There's a good deal of denial and shock, but even more, there is coping.  People instinctively realize that personalizing these horrors won't help them deal with tomorrow, and the day after.

by The Maven on Thu Jul 7th, 2005 at 02:13:40 PM EST
Yes, I'll try to update once a day if possible. It will be interesting to see what goes on tomorrow.

I, for one, will never think of boarding a London bus in quite the same way.

Pogo: We have met the enemy, and he is us.

by d52boy on Thu Jul 7th, 2005 at 04:57:08 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Meh. It's not the first time a bus has been blown up, won't be the last time.
by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Thu Jul 7th, 2005 at 05:02:19 PM EST
[ Parent ]
No, not the first nor the last time.

But when we brought our kids to London the first time, their favourite activity was riding on the upper deck of the buses. It will be strange to board one tomorrow, or the next day. I doubt we'll go to the upper deck; that picture of the top blown off the bus is too fresh in our minds.

Pogo: We have met the enemy, and he is us.

by d52boy on Thu Jul 7th, 2005 at 05:06:55 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Hi d52, glad you're safe and  am hoping all the people you know found safety.  Can't think of anything appropriate to say that would cover the magnitude of what has happened to the people in London-and by extension to all of England.

I do share your anger(a seething anger that only continues to grow every day) towards bush-never discounting of course the terrorists who did this-as he seems to be the catalyst since 9/11 with all his criminally and ignorantly misguided actions making the world less safe not safer as he is so fond of spouting-in his fantasy induced idea of what is going on in the world.

"People never do evil so throughly and happily as when they do it from moral conviction."-Blaise Pascal

by chocolate ink on Thu Jul 7th, 2005 at 03:19:49 PM EST
Thanks for your kind thoughts, chocolate. It's the people who were caught up in this madness that I can't stop thinking about.

Pogo: We have met the enemy, and he is us.
by d52boy on Thu Jul 7th, 2005 at 05:03:47 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Today the West End--away from the bomb sites--was very much back to normal, apart from an enhanced police presence on the streets. They checked bags carefully at the museums, but I'm not sure this was unusual. We went to see 'Chicago' and at the curtain Brooke Shields made a short speech, her voice breaking, and led us in a few moments of silence for the victims of the bombings. The telly featured heart-rending pleas from people still searching for loved ones. Apparently a fair number of bodies remain trapped in the underground, and it will be a few days before the crews get them all out. BBC estimate was a final death count over 50, but under 100.

Bye from London.

Pogo: We have met the enemy, and he is us.

by d52boy on Fri Jul 8th, 2005 at 07:57:15 PM EST
Thanks for the update.

"People never do evil so throughly and happily as when they do it from moral conviction."-Blaise Pascal
by chocolate ink on Sat Jul 9th, 2005 at 12:30:44 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Yes, thank you for your report and updates. It is good to get a sense of what is going on and how people are managing. Fortitude, it sounds like...

"Once in awhile we get shown the light, in the strangest of places, if we look at it right" - Hunter/Garcia
by whataboutbob on Sat Jul 9th, 2005 at 09:51:24 AM EST


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