Welcome to European Tribune. It's gone a bit quiet around here these days, but it's still going.

Living in France

by Lupin Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 03:59:43 AM EST

I posted this Thursdayday on Kos, but I thought it might also find a curious audience here.

General caveat: it's very hard to generalize on the basis of one's personal experience.  Lots of good and bad everywhere; different strokes, etc.

Premise: we're dual American/French citizens, and we speak the language; my wife and I moved from Los Angeles to the South of France last January; some have followed our story and looked at the photos on our blog here.

For what it's worth, here is a bullet list of what I have observed since our move:


    * the food is better, no surprise there, but good food is a lot cheaper - junk food was cheap, but really good food in Los Angeles was damn expensive; living in a village, we get a lot of local produce (in season) for virtually next to nothing; and the local Carrefour is, to us, the equivalent of a Beverly Hills gourmet store at 1/10th the prices.

    * healthcare is no longer a dark cloud looming over our heads; I probably don't need to expand on this, but   our national healthcare payment, being based on past income, is very low and a year of additional private insurance costs only a month of what we paid in LA; plus we laugh hysterically when told how much health-related things cost; e.g.: a full gamut of sophisticated blood tests that cost $750 in LA cost us $120 here, most of which we'll get back anyway.

    * social services, insurance, utilities, telecom, etc. are cheaper - variably: home insurance, about a quarter of what we used to pay; utilities, phone maybe 10%, 15% less, etc. (in California electricity is expensive); post office is more expensive though.

    * gas is a lot more expensive (about $6/gallon), but we don't need to drive that much, our village has pretty much anything we need; heating fuel, however, will kick in, so we'll try to be prudent there. In LA we had electric so I lack good comparison basis.

    * poverty is real but not as widespread and in your face - it's more like the way the US used to look like in the 70s; those who say the US is starting to look like a Third World nation are right; with Katrina we've reached what I call the "fly on the lips" stage; I can't see any of that here.

    * there's more, much more, of a social conscience and caring attitude; by far, the most striking difference; we live in a traditionally "boslshie" area but they do care about the poor and downtrodden; very strong sense of community.

    * average guy/gal, the one you meet shopping, etc., seems much better educated on all kinds of topics; I hate to say this but they make Americans seem like morons by comparison; we like to chat with supermarkets cashiers, artisans, anyone really, same as in LA, and we've had conversations about politics, literature, energy, science, that we never had and couldn't possibly imagine ever having in California.

    * there's also far fewer "lunatics" (by my definition) in politics and the media; like most of us, Jon Stewart being #1 in stating this, I've grown disgusted by what passes for public discourse in the US - I still don't know about the "Oui" vs the "Non" but one thing that impressed the hell out of us: the level and quality of debate on French TV. Unimaginable.

    * taxes are higher, though if you're not rich, not that much, and our property taxes are much lower - then again we're not in LA anymore, Toto (and Prop 13-wise we'd bought in '85 - I shudder to think what new buyers are paying).

    * starting a business is financial suicide (they really should reform that) and even running a succesful biz requires making a lot more money just to cover social payments, and the owner gets less out of it; yes, really, France is NOT a small-business friendly place, unless you do a lot of things "black", under the table. Their system is expensive, but socking it to the  smnall businesses is asphyxiating a potential source of jobs. But then I'm sure the issue is very complex and I'm talking out of my ass.

    * pretty much anything I could buy in LA, I can find here, except there's a lot more useful daily little kitchen gadgets and home appliances in the US; I wish I had a euro for every time a local has pointed to a fancy shoe rack or a kitchen implement and waxed poetically about it; one could make money importing US gadgets here, I suspect.

    * French TV sucks like unbelievably bad; thank god for Sky (dish required); no, honestly, why does it suck so bad? Their TV series look cheap, stretching to 2 hours a 1-hour story, badly acted (except for the lead), badly shot, badly lit, corpses twitch, continuity goes out of the window... It makes Canadian TV looks brilliant. (Sorry, Canadians! But the "I... Am.. DAMOCLES!" so justly spoofed by MADE IN CANADA does exist.)  I'm not even talking content here, just technical execution.  And fiction. Varieties and sports and talking heads and the weather are fine.

    * French movies today (compared to 20 years ago) also suck; I yield to none in my admiration of French cinema but virtually everything (or most of everything) I've seen in the last 2 years or so, has been terrible; I wonder why?

    * the public is not armed (yet?) so you don't feel any little public spat on the road might result in a blood bath.

    * French Police (in my region) is A LOT nicer than  "Search & Destroy" LAPD, like the Ponch is a lot nicer than the Terminator; we've been stopped twice on the road, have had several interfaces ranging from local cops to the Prefecture and it's been extraordinarily civil and chatty and pleasant; In LA, I almost got shot for jaywalking on Ventura Blvd in the Valley (I'm not making this up).

    * day-to-day technology seems farther ahead, more advanced (cell phones, cars, plumbing, whatever).

    * I don't feel like the sky is going to fall (as shown in NOLA, literally); meaning that despite all of Europe's very complex problems, I'm sure, I don't feel like we're on the edge of the cliff; France, I feel, will muddle through, kicking and groaning; the US OTOH, I feel, is going to experience incredibly painful changes. I could be wrong but we do feel a lot safer here.

There, a collection of first-hand, totally subjective bullet points 8 months after we moved.

Display:
Hello, nice diary!

Just a few comments:

--TV: what about tele5 or mezzo, the music channel?

--What is life like in a French city? A "tough" French city, like Marseille? Just to be fairer on LA ;-)

--Fancy household gadgets: when I moved to Germany my impression was that they have everything you may or may not need not for your kitchen, but it was all (i) punishingly expensive and (ii) made to look and feel extra special, as befits the Great Cooking Ritual. Even humble wooden spoons had to be SCUPLTED...

Concerning the political, cultural, educational aspects of your diary,  I have my (eurocentric) hypotheses, but they would lead too far...

A dog's a dog. A Cat's a Cat. (T.S. Eliot)

by BFA (agnes at ims dot uni-stuttgart dot de) on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 05:57:32 AM EST
We watch TV mostly for news/weather and fiction (made-for-TV movies, series); we don't have much interest in other kinds of broadcast (music, varieties, etc) so my opinion is mostly limited to TV series - cop shows, legal shows, drama, etc.

I can understand that French TV does not have the means or skills to make a STAR TREK or GALACTICA, but why can't they make a good INSPECTOR MORSE? Instead, they do NESTOR BURMA.  And even the execution is terrible.

Re: Marseilles vs LA? I don't know, honestly. I've been through Marseilles a couple of times, and can't say that I care much for it.

Gadgets: the cheap plasticky things is what I meant... My wife has a special knife to cut soft things like tomatoes, that folks here looked at in amazement... Also a small container attached to the dog's leash to carry poopie bags... Nothing expensive, just quite practical. Mind you, it might just be that they're a bit behind the times here. Might be different in Paris.

by Lupin on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 06:50:03 AM EST
[ Parent ]
tele 5 is the "highbrow" culture channel. It's quite enjoyable. I even recall a decent series with a woman detective! (I don't recall the title, I saw a few episodes when I was staying in a hotel -- don't have TV myself.) It was quite enjoyable, with an emphasis on psychology. Mezzo is devoted 80% to classical music, 20% to jazz and world music. I recall Samson and Dalila(h) with a very young Placido Domingo, from the San Francisco Opera, of all places... (And I saw it at my parents' place in Romania -- I have yet to see Mezzo in Germany!)

Gadgets: I don't know about France (and rural areas there), but Germany is definitely gadget-land. Especially Stuttgart and environs: locals have been tinkering with metal for ages, some of it leading to enterprises like Bosch, some to these gasoline-guzzling metal boxes on wheels,  with chairs in'em.

Maybe the French are just more elevated and enjoy the stark simplicity of doing everything with one well-worn knife:-) ?

Red tape & business: way back when Hungary was criticised by the EU precisely because of its bureaucracy and business-unfriendliness. Glad to see they only meant that H. did not have THEIR kind of bureaucracy ;-)

A dog's a dog. A Cat's a Cat. (T.S. Eliot)

by BFA (agnes at ims dot uni-stuttgart dot de) on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 08:24:17 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Hm, strange discussion for someone with a general dislike for (almost) all (real-life) TV series and even more so TV movies, whatever their country of origin :-)

If I strain my memory, beyond early childhood (lots of Czechoslovak and Hungarian child series, The Onedin Line) and pre-adolescence (for example A-team, uaarrgh...), I only liked to watch, in this order, Auf Achse (a German series about two truck drivers), the first few episodes of Young Indiana Jones, the first batch of 24 up until it turned into overspun overkill - plus the endless re-runs of the Jeremy Brett version of Sherlock Holmes (in which I discover ever more quality with every re-watch) and The Persuaders (here laughing about jokes turned laughing about its post-sixties fakeness).

On the other hand, I must confess being a big fan of The Simpsons and Futurama...

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 09:01:16 AM EST
[ Parent ]
BTW, can any of you Europeans, especially Britons and Irish, help me out?

I remember one TV series that made a great impact on me in the early eighties, but completely forgot its title, and even almost all of its story.

All I remember is that it was some 8-16-part series set maybe two or three centuries ago, played in Scotland and (maybe) Ireland, its hero was an orphaned guy but a young man throughout the series, there were lots of Redcoats and they were the bad guys; and the series' theme was a very sad Celtic music played on a bagpipe.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 09:05:22 AM EST
[ Parent ]
I suspect that it might have been Jean-Pierre Decourt's version of Robert Louis Stevenson's Kidnapped fro 1979. It was shown in Germany as Die Abenteuer des David Balfour.

It certainly had haunting music from what I remember.

Eats cheroots and leaves.

by NeutralObserver on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 09:58:07 AM EST
[ Parent ]
I looked that up, even found a site with episode guide - indeed that's it!!! Many thanks!

Speaking of haunting music, I remembered another TV series from my childhood I liked on re-watching (at least the first few episodes): the eighties Italian(-US-Chinese) co-production Marco Polo (with Ken Marshall in the title role). The score was another Morricone masterpiece.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 10:34:57 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Hi, Lupin. I can't really comment on the comparison between rural France and California, but your anecdote about nearly getting shot reminded me of this -- you may already know it, but it's worth a re-read:

In LA, you can't do anything unless you drive. Now I can't do anything unless I drink. And the drink-drive combination, it really isn't possible out there. If you so much as loosen your seatbelt or drop your ash or pick your nose, then it's an Alcatraz autopsy with the questions asked later. Any indiscipline, you feel, any variation, and there's a bullhorn, a set of scope sights, and a coptered pig drawing a bead on your rug.

So what can a poor boy do? You come out of the hotel, the Vraimont. Over boiling Watts the downtown skyline carries a smear of God's green snot. You walk left, you walk right, you are a bank rat on a busy river. This restaurant serves no drink, this one serves no meat, this one serves no heterosexuals. You can get your chimp shampooed, you can get your dick tattooed, twenty-four hour, but can you get lunch? And should you see a sign on the far side of the street flashing BEEF--BOOZE--NO STRINGS, then you can forget it. The only way to get across the road is to be born there. All the ped-xing signs say DON'T WALK, all of them, all the time. That is the message, the content of Los Angeles: don't walk.


(Martin Amis, Money, 1984)

I'd say you were lucky not to get shot for crossing the road. You should have been shot, in all logic.

In the woods around Chalabre in the autumn, don't dress up as a wild boar. ;)

by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 06:12:46 AM EST
A close encounter with the LAPD is a terrifying thing. They act like robots and you can almost hear the bomb ticking when you watch their body language. Seriously.

One of the pieces of advice we gave everyone visiting us in LA was to be exceedingly careful if stopped by the Police. Don't talk back, don't make any sudden moves, in fact, tell them before you do anything, don't touch them, don't look at them, do exactly as you're told.

When they shoot you, you don't die with one bullet hole but usually, like, 17.

They take jaywalking very seriously in LA; it is not an experience I would care to repeat.

OTOH the gendarmes from Chalabre could warrant a cameo in the next Marcel Pagnol movie.  I'm sure they can have a very hard edge if called for, but it's quite a change to be stopped at night for a routine control and not break up in a cold sweat.

As for the Hunting Season, little chance we'll be in the woods then but, yes, every year, from what I've heard, the hunters do seem to at least shoot themselves once or twice...  Evolution in action, I suppose.

Even wearing antlers on the head, I'd still take the woods of Chalabre over Panorama City any time.

by Lupin on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 06:59:52 AM EST
[ Parent ]
It's interesting what people feel is dangerous though.  I was once broken down on the shoulder of a freeway in California and a highway patrol cop stopped.  We chatted for a while and he told me he'd been in the LAPD the SFPD and the Oakland PD before joining the Highway Patrol.  Later he was asking me about London and mentioned that his wife really wanted to visit but that he was too nervous "because of all the bombs" (and this was about 8 years ago).  I nearly choked.  The idea that someone who had been in the LAPD would be nervous of travelling to London was flabbergasting.  It just had never occurred to me.

Musings on life in Romania and beyond
by adhoc on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 07:22:50 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Highway Patrol (CHIPs) are actually a lot less wound up  / high strung than LAPD.  THE SHIELD is practically a documentary.

We totally freak out at the notion of terrorism, notwithstanding the thousands of death-by-handguns every month. When we left LA, some maniac was shooting people on the freeway. They never caught him. You're driving on your way to work. Bam! You're dead.

The LAPD was reduced to argue that, when compared to the total number of violent deaths in the city, it wasn't that bad.

But "terrorists"?  Ooooo... panic panic yowza.

In Europe, I think people have just gotten used to bombs etc. what with the IRA, GIA, Red Brigades, Baader-M., and they treat it the way they should: as a crime.

In America we freak out like virgins at an orgy.

by Lupin on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 07:33:35 AM EST
[ Parent ]
"there's more, much more, of a social conscience and caring attitude; by far, the most striking difference"

And there are much more "Christians" in the US. This will always boggle my mind, since Jesus nonstop talked about caring for the poor and helpless. As a Christian myself, I just don't get the American mentality. What the heck is going on in their churches....

by swedish liberal on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 06:38:06 AM EST
I think it's Protestantism.  If you're poor, it's your fault. God willed it that way.

I used to joke that, when a natural disaster, plane crash, etc., struck, instead of the Priest comforting the bereaved ("God's plan, mysterious ways," etc.), he should go back to old-fashioned medieval fire & brimstone.

The plague? God's punishment! If you don't repent, next time it'll be worse! Every crappy thing that happened was meted out to you personally by a wrathful, pissed off God and you had to consider yourself lucky you'd only lost 6 members of your family, not 10.

That used to be a joke (sort of).  Now it's become kind of mainstream thinking in certain circles in the US.

by Lupin on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 07:05:26 AM EST
[ Parent ]
I think it's Protestantism.  If you're poor, it's your fault. God willed it that way.

A version of it. Remember, Scandinavian countries are Lutheran.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 08:39:48 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Yeah but the European Protestant nutcases fled to our country and founded it.  True, not all Protestants are fundamentalists, but that self-loathing, angry God, puritanical strain is highly over-represented here on our shores.

Wow.  It just dawned on me that perhaps it should be of no surprise that America has been taken over by religious fanatics.  I mean, a good deal of the people who've settled here were running from religious persecution in their own countries.  Which is not to say they were all extremists, just remarkably fervent in their beliefs.  

Hey, maybe if Europe and the rest of the world had been a little more tolerant of religious minorities (or in the case of communism, any religion), we would not be in this mess.  Yikes, just dawned on me that Europe in fact has had some role in creating the freakshow that is now the U.S. of A.  Good job, guys. ;)

Chew on that.

Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities. -Voltaire

by p------- on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 04:29:12 PM EST
[ Parent ]
...a good deal of the people who've settled here were running from religious persecution in their own countries... Hey, maybe if Europe and the rest of the world had been a little more tolerant of religious minorities

I read somewhere that this is a myth perpetrated by these fled religious minorities themselves. E.g., the Pilgrims et al were banished because they persecuted people, for violation of their religious dogmas, taking law into their hands. But:

Yikes, just dawned on me that Europe in fact has had some role in creating the freakshow that is now the U.S. of A.  Good job, guys. ;)

This remains true... sorry :-)

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Tue Sep 27th, 2005 at 09:50:54 AM EST
[ Parent ]
It's Anglican/American evangelism. When the pilgrims made landfall in America, it was hard times. So, a good familyman was one who worked hard etc etc to keep his family fed.

Too bad this mentality hasn't been updated and revised for todays consumer driven society.

My $0,02.

____________
Dub mentality

by Coug (me(AT]tommyb{DOT]info) on Sat Sep 24th, 2005 at 09:32:22 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Sodom and Gomorrah of the US.  I can't imagine a worse city from which to generalize about American Christianity or spirituality.
by wchurchill on Tue Sep 27th, 2005 at 02:24:59 AM EST
[ Parent ]
I was in Amsterdam this summer, and the plumbing was incredibly high-tech.  The toilet, for example, had two levels of flushing: a little for #1, and a lot for #2.  And the shower was controlled by a device that set the flow rate with one handle, and the temparature with another.  It must have had a temparature sensitive automatic mixing valve inside - I have never seen anything like it in the US.  Even the U-joint under the sink utilized some concentric piping that was very compact, and was designed for easy cleaning.  

I was so impressed that I drew these devices into my diary, while my wife, the fine art fanatic, teased me mercilessly.

by corncam on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 10:25:28 AM EST
incredibly high-tech.  The toilet, for example, had two levels of flushing: a little for #1, and a lot for #2. And the shower was controlled by a device that set the flow rate with one handle, and the temparature with another.

Hm, that seems to me to be pretty much standard by now for new toilets/lavratories in Europe, is it really non-existent in the USA?

As for temperature sensitive, unless I misread your description for something simpler, no it's just a mixing valve whose mixing ratio is adjusted by turning the lever.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 10:40:00 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Yes we have these two devices in our home; superb.
by Lupin on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 10:45:44 AM EST
[ Parent ]
American toilets have that, too. It's been required by law for new installations for quite a while. Most people are too oblivious to understand how they work, though:

  • Press the lever and release: Low volume flush.
  • Press the lever and hold: High volume flush.

Typical American shower handles have independent control of volume and temperature, for example:
http://www.symmons.com/products/search_results_detail.cfm?search=temptrol&id=15

A feature of European plumbing that is NOT common in America is demand type hot water heaters. We typically have a big hot water tank, while it's common in Europe to have heater under the sink that only heats the water as it's used.

by asdf on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 11:35:25 AM EST
[ Parent ]
#  Press the lever and release: Low volume flush.
# Press the lever and hold: High volume flush.

Well, I kind of understand that obliviousness. In Europe, there are two separate (and lately different-sized) buttons, or one button that can be pushed at two ends, or pushed down in two steps.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 12:07:33 PM EST
[ Parent ]
are we talking bathroom fittings here,

oooooh one of my pet peeeeeeves. why, does the UK have two taps? (well I know the answer, but it is still infuriating. History, and you save water, because you put the plug into the bowl and let both run)

Also, the overflow in a toilet must not go into the toilet but has to run seperate into the waste.

I know, they have changed that, but arghghgh.

just wanted to vent this before we come to the inevitable discussion of toilet bowl preferences.

by PeWi on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 12:24:54 PM EST
[ Parent ]
why, does the UK have two taps?

Ahhh, that drove me crazy too, during the three weeks in 1999 I was on holyday there! In this matter adopting those reviled European standards would really do good.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 12:28:26 PM EST
[ Parent ]
The reason is historical and a lot of new installations can include mixer taps. The UK installations have cold supplies that are fed either directly from the mains or from header tanks in the building. The direct supply is intended to give clean drinking water whereas the header supply can be polluted by things getting into the tank. It is intended to be used for things like ordinary washing, feeding hot water systems or toilets where the contamination will not matter.

Early mixer taps could allow a backflow so the hot water could contaminate the cold/potable supply. The newer kitchen taps are arranged with concentric feeds so the two supplies never meet until they come out the end of the tap assembly.

Actually the most disturbing plumbing to first encounter are the automatic urinals that work by detecting the presence of a user and turning on the water supply when they approach. Unlike the US where many have a flush mechanism for the user, most European ones work on a timer or other system that does not require manual intervention.  

by Londonbear on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 05:56:31 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Yah, always a good idea to "vent" the toilet plumbing, otherwise things go glug, glug, instead of swoosh.

Actually what I liked about the bathrooms in Norway were the 6cm? drop from the hall floor level. So for the cleaning process you spray most everything in sight and it all runs down the drain, vs. the antique system here of rag/mop and bucket.

NVA, a viable option when the political process fails.

by NorthDakotaDemocrat (NorthDakotaDemocrat at gmail dot com) on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 03:13:54 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Wow! I only hope that reader sees how the city-versus-country comparison here completely overwhelms the America-versus-France comparison.

L.A. is indeed a very wierd place by anybody's standards...

by asdf on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 10:34:38 AM EST
Is LA a true city? ;-)

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.
by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 10:40:37 AM EST
[ Parent ]
I spent some time in Pierre South Dakota and it sucked. :-)
by Lupin on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 10:47:22 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Would you care to go through Lupin's list of points and say to how many of them your city/country contrast really applies?

Though, in some cases, being in a large French city would be a minus, in others you'd find a plus side. And many of his points (imho) are city/country neutral...

by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 11:00:20 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Oh, man, I should have kept my mouth/keyboard shut!

* the food is better, no surprise there, but good food is a lot cheaper
> Hard to compare. Rural American grocery stores are pretty good, but probably don't have as many exotics. No clue about cost comparison, although cities are typically more expensive because of the general cost of real estate.

* healthcare
> Huge problem in U.S., not related to city/rural.

* social services, insurance, utilities, telecom, etc. are cheaper
> Almost certainly a city/rural thing. L.A. is incredibly expensive.

* gas is a lot more expensive (about $6/gallon), but we don't need to drive that much, our village has pretty much anything we need; heating fuel, however, will kick in, so we'll try to be prudent there.
> Gas is obviously more expensive in Europe. Small towns in America require some driving, but not as much as L.A., which is ridiculous. Not sure about heat.

* poverty is real but not as widespread and in your face - it's more like the way the US used to look like in the 70s; those who say the US is starting to look like a Third World nation are right; with Katrina we've reached what I call the "fly on the lips" stage; I can't see any of that here.
> Not sure about this one. There is real, agonizing poverty in both rural and urban France as well as in America.

* there's more, much more, of a social conscience and caring attitude; by far, the most striking difference; we live in a traditionally "boslshie" area but they do care about the poor and downtrodden; very strong sense of community.
> Probably a city/rural thing. Small American towns have strong sense of community.

* average guy/gal, the one you meet shopping, etc., seems much better educated on all kinds of topics...
> I don't know about this one.

* there's also far fewer "lunatics" (by my definition) in politics and the media; like most of us, Jon Stewart being #1 in stating this, I've grown disgusted by what passes for public discourse in the US - I still don't know about the "Oui" vs the "Non" but one thing that impressed the hell out of us: the level and quality of debate on French TV. Unimaginable.
> Totally disagree with this one. France has Le Pen, America doesn't. French TV is probably more academic, as you might expect by a government-controlled media.

* taxes are higher
> Would probably be even higher in the city.

* starting a business is financial suicide
> America is more liberal in this area, not related to urban/rural.

* pretty much anything I could buy in LA, I can find here, except there's a lot more useful daily little kitchen gadgets and home appliances in the US
> Gadgets all come from Korea anyway...

* French TV sucks like unbelievably bad
> How do you know this? Why do you watch TV?  :-)

* French movies today (compared to 20 years ago) also suck
> Subjective, although France does have this thing about subsidizing "French" movies that sometimes gets out of control...

* the public is not armed (yet?) so you don't feel any little public spat on the road might result in a blood bath.
> Might not want to go out in Marseilles at night with that attitude.

* French Police (in my region) is A LOT nicer
> LAPD is pretty bad. Rural American cops live next door and are regular people. I don't know much about the police in Paris...

* day-to-day technology seems farther ahead, more advanced (cell phones, cars, plumbing, whatever).
> Debateable. Certainly Europeans have adopted cell phones more quickly than Americans, due to our lousy rate structures. Europeans drive diesel cars that don't come close to meeting American (or European) emissions standards; it's a real problem that's being ignored. Plumbing, nah. Other examples?

* I don't feel like the sky is going to fall (as shown in NOLA, literally); meaning that despite all of Europe's very complex problems, I'm sure, I don't feel like we're on the edge of the cliff; France, I feel, will muddle through, kicking and groaning; the US OTOH, I feel, is going to experience incredibly painful changes. I could be wrong but we do feel a lot safer here.
> Naturally you will find that I completely disagree! There are hurricanes in America, yes, and there are heat waves in Europe.

Los Angeles is generally agreed to be a pretty nasty place...

by asdf on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 12:01:53 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Food: I suspect the point is more of the quality of the food grown (tasteless mass-greenhouse-grown or locally tended) and the diversity of locally grown types, but then I don't know how rural America grows vegetables either.

Social services utilities etc.: I think in Europe, and I suspect France in particular, utilities are more expensive in rural areas.

Driving: to add to what you wrote, there is a village/city difference in Europe, in rural areas driving more (public transport is mostly only the bus to the next town).

Le Pen: America has Pat Robertson and a lot of more. The difference is that while Le Pen can never achieve power, the American counterparts have a strong effect on the Republican Party. (OK, Pat is not now within, but Santorum is.)

Not going out in Marseilles at night: I think you watched too many bad French movies from the last 20 years :-)

Rural American Cops: I'm partial here as an atheist, but I read a number of first-person accounts about how a rural policeman threw them out of town after some local overheard discussion where said person's atheism was exposed.

Gadgets, diesels: cars with particle filters (especially PSA's models which have it in a series way) do meet US standards, and all Diesels meet the currently weaker European standards. The problem is not ignored, there is an ongoing battle with industry lobbies (the German one) on the matter. (However, the outcome of the German elections might signal this battle is far away from green victory.)

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 12:23:22 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I don't think any diesels meet the standards for gasoline powered cars. With the particulate filters they get better, but the high combustion temperature makes it really hard to meet the nitrogen dioxide limit.

Re food: I'm going to be in North Platte, Nebraska
http://www.city-data.com/city/North-Platte-Nebraska.html
in a few weeks, a rural town/city of about 23,000 people. If some enterprising European wants to generate a list of perhaps 20 grocery store items that make up a "typical healthy and cheap" purchase, I'll take it to North Platte and find out about the availability and price...

by asdf on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 12:36:36 PM EST
[ Parent ]
The currently active Euro-4 has 0.25 g/km for Diesels, 0.08 for Ottos. The Euro-3 active until the end of last year had 0.15 for gasoline-based. Euro-5 is expected to cut limits to 0.2 and 0.06 from 2010. What this boils down to is that Diesel NOx standards follow gasoline ones with a delay of about a decade. (Euro-5 also reduces the particulate limit from 25 to 5 mg/km - this is big, and claimed to be achievable only with filters, but maybe German car manufacturers think they can achieve that by other means, hence they fight an even lower limit.)

I looked up US standards, had to convert them to g/km; minimum Tier 1, fully active since 1997 was a long-term 0.373 g/km for gasoline, Tier 2, fully active by 2008: fleet average NOx: 0.0435 g/km, OK that's indeed much lower than even Euro-5 gasoline. Particulates, Tier 1: 62 mg/km, Tier 2: 6.2-12.4 mg/km. That one it'll be easy to fulfill with filters.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 01:24:30 PM EST
[ Parent ]
ok, going shopping then:
2 liter of Milk
2 pounds of freshly made bread (not blown up in store)
2 different kinds of equally freshly made breadrolls (local tradition, only available in that part of the country)
1kg of organically grown local vegetables that are in season.
1 pound organically grown local fruit that are in season.
1Kg potatoes (local)

1Kg beef silverside (local)
1Kg pork spae ribs (local)
1Kg chicken breasts (local)

200g pork dripping

fresh herbs.
ONE bulb of Garlic

and as bonus

1 VW Polo standard, cheapest model - but you want a Polo
10 kw/hours of electricity
10 k/hours of gas
50 liter of diesel
1 dentist appointment with root treatment
1 bus ride back and forth, duration of one trip 35minutes

this is a half serious suggestion. but I will post my result next week.

by PeWi on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 01:33:05 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I was shocked by how expensive milk was back home after living in Germany my first two months here.  Then again, Germans (and I) seem to buy most of ours "Haltbar" - in unrefrigerated cartons that keep for about three months or so unopened (and then need to be used within 5 days or so once you do).  Store-brand ("Toll im Preis" - "Great in Price") at Real is usually about 49 cents/liter.  Gutes Land or Domspitz (Regensburg's big regional diary company) runs about 65 - 70 cents/liter in cartons.

Milk was nearly $4/gallon while I was home in Central Texas last Christmas, and I saw a gas station sign on the Internet showing fuel prices in Southeast Texas also advertising milk for $4.59/gallon.

Huh?

by Texmandie on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 02:20:59 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Anything that keeps for three months is not milk. Yuck.
by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 05:39:24 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Eh, doesn't taste any worse (or better) than "fresh" (homogenized) milk did in the States.  Stick the carton in the fridge the day before opening, and I can't tell the difference, especially on cereal.

Then again, I can't stand drinking a glass of milk unless it's low-fat and heavily iced.

I just cook with it most of the time, and German "haltbar" works out great for me.

by Texmandie on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 06:06:19 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I'm not in a good position relative to Western Europeans here, with communist centralised economy having had an adverse effect on vegetables diversity (in a restaurant in Budapest, there is an Italian waiter who ended up here by marriage, and who always complains about this to guests), but 20 I can do (actually basic types you can buy in a supermarket, on the marketplace there are several variants of each, and of course varying qualities of each):

  1. sweet paprika green-yellow long 'Hungarian' sort, for eating
  2. sweet paprika yellow-red long 'Hungarian' sort, for cooking
  3. sweet paprika red round "cherry" sort (sorry am not sure of the English name)
  4. sharp paprika dark green
  5. very sharp paprika bright red Southeastern Hungarian sort
  6. large watery tomato, for cooking
  7. medium-sized tomato, sweet, for eating
  8. mini tomato, for sandwitch ingredient & parties
  9. red radish
  10. white radish (big, long)
  11. 'normal' onion
  12. small onion, with green
  13. red onion
  14. carrot
  15. turnip
  16. celery
  17. courgette
  18. eggplant
  19. sour cabbage
  20. red cabbage
...

Also just as many fruits, acerbities, and lots of versions of potatoes and mushrooms.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 01:45:53 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Thinking of it, local supermarkets now have a standardised scale for all unpackaged vegetable stuff, with a pictoral display for choice that has 48-64 fields. That gives i.e. a picture - about 5-10 of these are exotic or expensive (i.e. bananas, orange etc.).

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.
by DoDo on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 02:28:07 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Europeans drive diesel cars that don't come close to meeting American (or European) emissions standards; it's a real problem that's being ignored.

How does class 4 diesel compare to US standards? The standards are getting tighter you'll notice, so it's hardly being ignored.

by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 12:49:59 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I didn't mean to force you to do the whole list!

A fair number really have nothing to do with town/country. TV, movies, average people you meet, healthcare (in fact better in town, more choice, closer facilities), price of gas, poverty, "lunatics", starting a business, gadgets, day-to-day technology.

That leaves:

  • food -- to some extent town/country, though you can easily buy good food in French cities;

  • water (dearer in town); insurance (dearer in town); but: social services (similar town to country); telecoms (same rates); electricity (same rates); -- so it's not as certainly urban/rural as you think;

  • social conscience -- no doubt less of it in cities;

  • taxes -- property taxes would be higher in the city;

  • violence -- urban/rural, OK -- but what parts of Marseille are you referring to? (I mean, Lupin isn't talking about Watts...)

  • police -- to some extent town/country, but city police are not at all that bad in France.

All in all, I don't think the town/country comparison is so overwhelming. You may not agree with the France/Calif comparison, but that is essentially what it's about.
by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 01:14:39 PM EST
[ Parent ]
If I may comment on your comments:

  • I loved LA; we lived in the valley, Encino, it was a delightful place, very convenient, lovely street, lovely house -- photo of our LA house here (first pic, top)

  • however once we left our enclave, then the traffic had become insane in the last 2-3 years; in the morning, it sometimes took 1/2 hour just to reach the freeway entrance, 1 mile 1/2 away.

  • I do know (some of) rural America - South Dakota; it sucks, it is Hell on Earth, I'd rather be locked up in San Quentin, and I've been to San Quentin. (Long story.) The people suck, the food suck, the TV suck, the weather sucks, the lifestyle sucks. So believe me I AM NOT / WAS NOT A COUNTRY PERSON!

  • Regarding groceries, what I tried to say was not that food is cheaper here,  it isn't -- you could find reasonably good, incredibly cheap food in LA. Our supermarkets in the Valley are among the best in America. What I meant is really good food, healthy food, tasty food, organic food, imported food, etc. costs an arm and a leg. Worth every penny, no doubt, but still.

Here, in Chalabre, food grown locally easily tops (in terms of taste and quality) the best of what we could buy in LA and it's dirt cheap, when we simply don't get it free because our neighbors with gardens insist (bless 'em) on dumping on us bags of produce when in season.

So yes it is a rural vs city thing, and yet no one ever gave me a free steak in South Dakota.

  • I've read there is poverty in riral France but I haven't seen anything that looks and feels "agonizing" in our Departments (Ariege, Aude), and they're not supposed to be "rich" departments; yes I hear a lot of folks are on the RMI which in effect is a small monthly stipdend given by the French Government to anyone who's not making any money; but trust me, if you're poor, it's a lot better to be poor here. Images of the poverty that some Americans lived in in Louisiana and New Orleans broadcast on TV have shattered the image of America people had here; there is no such poverty here.

  • I don't mean to sound insulting but there's no comparison between the heat waves (at worst no different that the cold wave that every year kills homeless in Chicago) and even the local storms, and the hurricanes and earthquakes and tornados one might experience in the US, which were bad enough then (we lived through the '94 Northridge Quake 5 miles away), before it became clear that the kleptofascists in charge have looted the Government of its resources.
by Lupin on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 02:17:35 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Hm, regarding heatwaves and hurricanes, perceptions matter - but it seems to me 18,000 statistical excess death heatwave victims just in France (and uncounted numbers elsewhere: for example Aznar's Spain didn't want to do a statistical excess calculation) is much more than even Katrina's death toll. On the other hand, if you mean the effect on the average guy, you might be right.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.
by DoDo on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 07:04:16 AM EST
[ Parent ]
It seems that very little could have been done to save the people that died except having air conditioning in every appartment, not a practical proposal (not to mention its cost in energy generation).

  • mortality in 2004 was really low, so it is now pretty much agreed that the 2003 deaths heatwave shortened the life of the weakest by a small number of months;

  • contrary to what was shown at the time, most of the deaths were people that were surrounded by family and/or nursing care, and who simply did not cope with the extraordinary heat. The heat was extraordinary not so much during daytime (38-40°) but for the fact that for at least 5 nights in a row it never went below 25° at night, thus preventing the frail bodies from ever resting. These people could not have been saved without full air conditioning.


In the long run, we're all dead. John Maynard Keynes
by Jerome a Paris (etg@eurotrib.com) on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 08:50:44 AM EST
[ Parent ]
(Guilty mode) I should have added all of this myself, as I remember when you wrote down these same facts to asdf a few weeks ago...

On the other hand, only the "shortened life" issue is an on-topic mitigating factor here - I didn't meant this as a criticism of French healthcare, but as a large-scale natural disaster in Europe.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 09:12:37 AM EST
[ Parent ]
I don't want to make a big deal about the heat wave deaths. It was a tragedy and a terrible situation, there is no question about it. All countries have problems. It's not something that an enthusiast for one country (e.g. me, enthusiastic about the U.S.) should use to brag about.

I try to tread carefully to point out differences between the two continents without gloating about things that go wrong in Europe. Sometimes it is frustrating when the gloating goes the other way...

by asdf on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 09:54:01 AM EST
[ Parent ]
How much "other-way" gloating have you come across on EuroTrib? Honestly?
by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 11:33:37 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Here's a thought for you: the people around here are possibly more disposed to like the US than most Europeans.
by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 05:37:16 PM EST
[ Parent ]
In 1995 there was a heatwave and in Chicago alone there were 800 death attributed to it. (source.)

But the truth is indeed, people here don't seem as prepared for extreme climatic conditions as one would think.  I'm ASTOUNDED by the number of folks who do NOT have central heating here, for example.

I'll gladly provide you with another item to add to the "minus" column -- I'm not trying to score points, I'm honestly trying to be fair and balanced. :-)

We have far more brief power cuts here than we ever had in LA, and I don't know why.  

What's wrong with EDF? We had storms in LA and very rarely experienced that kind of power cuts.

by Lupin on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 01:24:51 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I've lived in New York for 25 years and have experienced only one power failure -- the one a couple of years ago that everyone read about. The last few years I've been spending a lot of time with my partner in Fort Lauderdale and with my ailing parents in Iowa (who live in a city of 100,000 people), and I've been shocked at how often they both have power failures -- and how little it fazes them! Their power outages are usually weather-related, but that includes weather that we have in New York, too --- heavy rainfall and snowfall, respectively -- without ever having a power failure.

I think it must have to do with the difference between super-big city and smaller locality infrastructures.

by Matt in NYC on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 06:36:35 PM EST
[ Parent ]
We have far more brief power cuts here than we ever had in LA, and I don't know why.

Hm, could be one of the disadvantages of rural living, maybe.

I don't remember power cuts when I was in Germany; here in Budapest, there is maybe one once a year, most due to network maintainance. But on one ocassion, it was the explosion of a local transformator a block from my house - which by pure accident (I was looking out of the window for some reason at 11 pm) I saw directly.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Tue Sep 27th, 2005 at 09:45:58 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Hey, Encino!  I grew up in Van Nuys and Reseda.  Oddly enough, though, I got around primarily by walking (and, when they saw fit to arrive, the buses) for several years in the Valley.  Believe it or not, it is possible.  Not if you have a schedule to keep, places to be and people to meet, of course, but as a slacker teenager with nothing to do, I didn't have anything better to do than spend an hour and a half walking to the bus stop so I can go to the mall.

And, after walking enough, I came to realize that on average the Valley (and much of LA, I think, for I have walked extensively in other areas as well) is a lot safer than one might be led to believe from the news.  The thing is, since everyone has to drive to get anywhere, there's oftentimes NOBODY walking.  And if there really is nobody around, then you're almost completely safe.  Doesn't pay much for predator-type criminals to hang out in areas were there isn't anybody to prey on.  

by Zwackus on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 08:33:46 AM EST
[ Parent ]
I lived in North Hollywood for a couple of years, and then Woodland Hills for another couple of years, and am perfectly aware of the plusses and minuses of Encino.

South Dakota also has a few shortcomings! I don't know about the TV (not a TV-watching person). The weather is not exactly what would appeal to a Californian, that's for sure. But I'm not so sure about "the food and the people and the lifestyle suck" part of it. That would perhaps be a matter of individual preference...

by asdf on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 09:58:38 AM EST
[ Parent ]
offer you a free steak if I was a resident there.
by wchurchill on Tue Sep 27th, 2005 at 02:33:01 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Interesting. I've never lived in France but I did spend much of my life living a couple km from the border, with constant trips for shopping, hiking, skiing. I haven't spent much time in Geneva over the past decade - just the occasional short visit.

I'm not sure how fair it is to compare cost of living in LA to rural France. In my experience groceries are a bit more expensive in France than the US, though a hell of a lot cheaper than in Switzerland. The law and order authorities - depends on whether or not you are white. If you are, fine, if not - they're not all that nice.

Which brings me to a second problem I have with France. While my impression is that racism levels are similar in France and the US, the practical effects are much worse in France. That is IMO a result of the pig-headed refusal of the French to allow the government to even acknowledge race let alone do anything beyond abstract worrying about racial disparities - which can't be quantified since doing so would be illegal.  

Also, when I moved as a child from MA to Geneva, one of the things that really stood out was the gun department at the local big supermarket just across the border.

by MarekNYC on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 04:47:33 PM EST
So you are like living in my fantasy world.  Fine.  Rub it in.  

BTW, I was watching the local (Chicago) news and they were doing a report on how France is paying people to have more children, along with providing them with the social resources and job security to do so.

The news anchor actually closed the report with an excited and jealous "Gosh, that is just so progressive!"  Like, it was the first time in a long time I have heard a journalist describing something as socially progressive in a good way.  Hopefully people are waking up and realizing how good vous all have it and will begin demanding the same for themselves soon.  Or at least in my lifetime...

Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities. -Voltaire

by p------- on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 05:50:45 PM EST
There'll always be a bowl of soupe at our table for any US refugees. :-)
by Lupin on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 06:03:51 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Although I lived in LA for 20 years, it was as a kid at my parents' house, so I can't comment much on overall living expenses.  However, I did live in Ann Arbor, MI for five years in graduate school.  I always felt that overall utility costs were quite reasonable for my living situation, which was a yearly income of about $12,000 and a roommate.

I have noticed that they are distinctly more in Japan, but as my income here is almost triple what I used to have, I must admit I've not been paying TOO much attention to it.  After rent, my total utilities, including high-speed internet, don't normally come out to more than 20000 yen a month, equivalent to about $200 dollars spending-wise (NOT exchange wise.  As far as daily prices, the yen calibrates to the dollar at almost exactly 100/1 - that is, 100 yen FEELS like a dollar.)

Food, though, that I have paid attention to.

My experince with American supermarkets is that the fresher the item, the more expensive it is.  You can live pretty cheaply on frozen dinners and oatmeal, if you really want to.  Furthermore, the quality level of the fresh products available at your average supermarket tops out at a pretty low level.  You will almost never see anything marked as local.  Recently, small sections marked "Organic" have appeared, but mostly these are for processed or preserved organic products - nuts and dried fruits and flour and the like.  All this stuff is about 25% more expensive, on average.  In season?  What's that?  American supermarkets have doen their damndest to make us forget that foods go in and out of season.  I suppose, though, that in California, with a year-long growing season, at least it's accurate.

You can buy a lot of really cheap meat (chicken as cheap as $0.10 to $0.25/pound, sometimes) in the average supermarket, but most of it really isn't that good.  I could never afford to buy steaks that I thought were worth eating as steaks.  Those would range from $8.00 to $15.00 a pound.  Prices on roasts and whatnot were better, $4.00/pound buying you pretty reasonable roasting meat.  Lower-end supermarkets don't even sell good beef.  However, I like to cook with heavy spices and sauces, and it would be a crime to waste good meat on a sweet and sour sauce, so things worked out fine for me.  

But real bread?  Real cheese?  Good luck.  You find a factory product that is good enough, or you go to a speciality shop and pay through your nose for imported stuff.  Zingerman's deli in Ann Arbor is the perfect example of this.  You can get fancy organic cheese from all over the world, and wonderful fresh made bread.  Going there was an enormous treat.  The cheese was from $12.00 to $50.00 a pound, the breads $5.00 to $10.00 a loaf.  The problem is that the demand for the real stuff is just so low that there's no economy in making it.  Most people's tastes are so impoverished through generations of factory food and mediocre cooking that they just don't know any better.  I only came around because cooking is a hobby of mine, and I'm a glutton and so splurged on food after payday on a regular basis.  

Now I live in semi-rural Japan, and man is it strange.  The markets are really, REALLY Japanese in the range of products they offer.  I have to say, the produce here, although not very cheap, is just better than what I got on average in the states.  I always buy vegetables at the semi-local chain, which buys a lot of its produce from the local JAS cooperatives.  The local stuff is always marked as such, and sold right alongisde the regular stuff, and I buy it whenever I can.  It's damn good, but the selection leaves something to be desired.  I mean, if I wanted to live off of daikon (giant white radishes), I'd be set.  I've yet to see a store outside of Tokyo that sells cilantro (fresh corriander).  All the onions are yellow onions.  All potatoes are russet burbank-type.  All the green peppers are small and thin-skinned, some local variant I'd never seen in the US.  "Real" peppers of the red, green, and yellow variety are expensive and not always available.  It's nearly impossible to make good salads from the greens available.  The fruits, though, are great.  More or less local, highly seasonal, and real treats.  

Chicken and pork are cheap enough to eat, but are almost certainly factory produced somehwere else.  The fish selection is huge.  Fish is pretty expensive in America, in my experience, and my mom hated it, so I never grew up eating it.  I hardly know what to do with all the seafood stuff available at reasonable prices here.  Beef is right out.  Every couple of months I'll go get a steak at a restaurant, but that's that.

The Japanese just don't understand either bread or cheese.  They make decent white breads, but that's it.  There's a small organic bakery in town, which makes other kinds of breads, but in loafs the size of my hand, which cost 700 or 800 yen apiece.  They also do a couple tolerable pastries, but their abilities in that department are handicapped by the fact that the Japanese really don't have a sweet tooth - American cakes, pastries, etc. are WAY TOO SWEET, in their opinion.  Cheese is the worst, though.  They sell pre-shredded pizza mozarella in the stores, and it's expensive.  That's it.  It's fortunate that I'm not much of a cheese eater.

by Zwackus on Fri Sep 23rd, 2005 at 10:53:42 PM EST
I'm in Tokyo. You sound like living exactly in a typical semi-rural Japanese town. For great bread, try Maison Kaiser at B1 floor of Matsuya department store in Ginza.

I will become a patissier, God willing.
by tuasfait on Sat Sep 24th, 2005 at 08:56:52 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Hey, Tokyo's less than two hours away.  I'm in Chichibu, nestled in the mountains of western Saitama.  Maybe I'll check that out sometime.
by Zwackus on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 08:28:58 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Isn't this bread-and-cheese problem just a result of the lactose and yeast digesting problem?

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.
by DoDo on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 07:12:44 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Maybe a little bit with the dairy, but not as much any more.  People actually people drink a fair amount of milk.  We have a little carton every day with school lunch, and most everybody seems to drink it.  It's mostly just that the Japanese, on average, just don't have the faintest idea what real cheese is.  It's either the stuff that you put on pizza, or it's a strange and exotic and expensive foreign luxury.

Yeast allergies are nowhere near as common as lactose intolerance, though, and basic bread consumption is more commong than milk consumption.  For whatever reason, though, it's all plain white bread.  Some bakeries even do a pretty good plain white bread, lots of buttery goodness and all.  But, like with the cheese, they just don't really understand the full range of breads that are out there because, on average, they've never been exposed to them.

Then again, they're familiar with five or six different kinds of miso, at least ten varieties of vinegar, and pickles diverse beyond imagining.  Unfortunately for me, breads and cheeses are just a European thing, and Japan is inarguably non-European.

by Zwackus on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 08:27:19 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Zwackus, I take it from your mention of school that you're teaching. You wouldn't want to do a diary on your experiences, would you? With particular reference to semi-rural Japan rather than urban -- housing, how people live, schooling, etc? I'd love to learn more about it, and possibly a number of others would too...
by afew (afew(a in a circle)eurotrib_dot_com) on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 08:43:30 AM EST
[ Parent ]
As lactose non-digestion develops with age, I wonder if older people drink that milk regularly too, or only kids at school?

This is an issue I had much personal experience with BTW - my pre-pension-age mother developed lactose intolerance in the last few years, my younger brother's current girlfriend developed a total intolerance (she gets sick, real sick, from minute amounts) as a teenager, and to my shock I myself show its first stages in the last few months (twenty years earlier than my mother). What is strange is that apparently, dairy products have a stronger effect than plain milk - curd cheese in particular.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 09:21:34 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Lupin, thanks for this interesting diary.  I am curious.  Would you be able to provide a link to a real estate site so I could get an idea of how much a house would cost?

I just returned from Ireland and was dismayed by the housing prices.  Well, actually, all the prices.

by raincat100 on Sat Sep 24th, 2005 at 01:08:53 PM EST
As lupin hasn't replied, one English language site that might be a guideline is

Primelocation.com

Select International Property from the top-line menu and then answer the questions about country. Note that the map of France takes can take a minute or so to load on a slow connection.

In the search box, where it asks for min-max prices and min-max bedrooms, just leave the defaults.


Eats cheroots and leaves.

by NeutralObserver on Sat Sep 24th, 2005 at 06:39:29 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Sorry for the lack of earlier reply; I've been busy.

For better or worse (no implied endorsement, tho in our case they were very decent and fine), here is the agency that found us our present home:

Agence Haqmilton

by Lupin on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 01:58:45 AM EST
[ Parent ]
Thanks!
by raincat100 on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 07:36:23 AM EST
[ Parent ]
You should try living in Ireland and having to pay the property prices. That's what happens when your economy grows at 5-10% for a decade and the population is young.
by Colman (colman at eurotrib.com) on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 05:32:29 PM EST
[ Parent ]
yeah, i from what i saw the housing prices were very high.  i wish i could have bought a copy of eddie hobbes 'ripoff republic'  i will have mr. raincat buy one.

i want to understand what is going on with the Irish economy.  i heard that ireland is leading the EU in terms of their economy...but the people i spoke to were hurting.

by raincat100 on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 10:21:38 PM EST
[ Parent ]
What caught my eye primarily was your point about the sophistication of the culture. Obviously, as French culture has a long history, it will be more sophisticated. For one, they appreciate literature a lot more. Something Samuel Beckett once said about France always stuck with me: he liked the fact that August was "No Reading" month. I don't know if that's true but it is impressive.

Anyway, our television sets and airwaves our filled with nincompoop and bluster because our advertisers appeal to the lowest common denominator. I have a feeling that it's not so difficult to distort the average European mind in a similar way (that is, if you really don't care about the minds of citizens). All it takes is a will to sell to someone without giving a damn about the consequences. I guess I'm saying that in this chicken-and-egg argument, the corporations and their marketers are more to blame than the people (although, it's true, our secondary education system is at fault as well). Nonetheless, I meet ordinary people in my town who ignore the media. They are quite humane and intelligent. I tend to think that at the topical level, television tends to corrupt American culture. I don't have cable but I believe there are about 800 channels available to people with digital systems. Now, imagine what would happen to French children with access to 800 channels?

In short, I'm really arguing that a sense of community and an expansive interest in the world is more possible without cable television. Sounds simple, I know, but when you consider that Americans spend many hours of their lives every week in front of the tube, then the deficit can be explained.

Lastly, I live in Buffalo, NY. It's cold up here. But the city is very livable. We have excellent food stores downtown with local produce. We have local farmer's markets. All our neighborhoods are organized. We spend one or two mornings a month improving the neighborhood. We exert political pressure on City Hall regularly. I really like living here quite a bit. LA it isn't but I wouldn't leave here for LA.

by Upstate NY on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 10:27:38 AM EST
To be fair I wasn't as much referring to sophistication per se, as to the fact that even a supermarket counter clerk (at Carrefour, if you want specifics) (apologies if this seems to be a put down of cashiers) had a breadth of general culture (geography, history) that has taken me somewhat by surprise. You can talk abour Ukraine one week, New Orleans and Jazz the next.

I had a discussion with my mason, electrician and plumber one day about peak oil, new forms of energy, etc., worthy of anything Jerone has posted (minus the stats).  There in the middle of a labor site (our dining room to be) were three blue collar guys having a real, well agued, serious, dare I say it? intellectual discussion.

Last week, the sales lady from whom we bought the new carpet and stuff for the bedroom held her own in an entire discussion on poverty and racism in the US (she wasn't anti-American, BTW).

Granted all this is entirely anecdotal, but it made an impression.

by Lupin on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 01:16:00 PM EST
[ Parent ]
I meet people like that from all walks of life all the time. But they are not the majority in the States, that's for sure. But they are here.

Living in Italy taught me quite a bit about racial relations. The US has a problem because many of our white majority have difficulty with a huge minority population which is fast approaching 40% of the country. In Italy back int he 80s and early 90s, the people had much more tolerant attitudes on race, but then again, there were so few minorities around. I had trouble explaining segregated northeastern cities when my Italian friends visited. They found it deplorable. Where does one start? Bank redlining? The civil rights flight north in the 60s? Public housing?

by Upstate NY on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 06:13:55 PM EST
[ Parent ]
Did today's post had to include mediterranean food and tomatos provencale ?
The only thing good about remebering them aloud was that my pale WalMart bought tomatos blushed in shame so they finally got a reddish tint... Alas, none of the flavor!

Hubby and I are seriously looking at our Italian passports(dual cit.) and considering the way US is turning into a banana republic with nukes. We may join you guys in the "Old Europe" when our kids get a bit bigger.

Things are getting too weird and I don't want my kids growing up in Bushistan!!!

by lawnorder (lawnorder / texasturkey.us) on Sun Sep 25th, 2005 at 12:32:30 PM EST
Part of the reason that everyday technology items seems more advance is that Europe skipped some of the technologies that were very common in the USA. A particular example are mobile(cell) phones and pagers. The latter never caught on as they were so expensive and limited but as soon as cellphones came on the scene with SMS text factilitoes, they were redundant anyway. Another factor was the adoption of a common standard and  they way licences were granted. These were usually covering the whole country with multiple providers rather than the regional system first introduced in the USA. In most countries the phones are either very cheap or free with 12 month contracts and competition reduces the prices of the calls. (My current contract is a special offer that reduces the cost to around $9 a month including 500 voice minutes and 100 text minutes a month)

Other technology advances tend to be more incremental than in the US which perversely makes them faster. The position varies but digital TV (DTV) is more widespread and has had faster take-up in the countries that have adopted it than in the US (France held back but I believe has just started. This puts them behind the UK in this respect - we are to completely turn off analog TV broadcasts by 2012) Cable never really caught on and even now is the Cinderella of systems) Rather than going straight to highly expensive HDTV with @700/1000 "lines" the EU basic standard is @500, the same as DVD. A very simply connected set-top box (using a Euro-standard SCART socket) makes the conversion of an existing set very easy and cheap - boxes start around $50 before tax. That makes widescreen TV programs virtually standard, in turn increasing demand and bringing the starting price of a standard tubed widescreen 28" set to under $180 before tax. The guys who recently put in the new antenna system in the block I live in are actually Portugese who have been here learning the technology before they go back and start installing similar systems at home. HDTV broadcasts are just starting on satellite and broadcasters are already making in it (I believe the BBC made "Rome" in HDTV and plans to make all its programs in HDTV by 2010) Most countries are going down the standard definition terrestrial broadcasts/ HDTV by satellite and cable because the extra bandwiths available allow more stations to be broadcast. Compared to the US system where it will almost be 1 land frequency = 1 HDTV station, the EU "multiplex" system allows up to 6 stations plus up to 20 radio/alternate audio feeds.  

(footnote to Lupin, next year the BBC and the UK commercial stations plan to start broadcasting completely unscrambled which should add a lot more stations to your choice without having to pretend to Rupert Murdoch you live in the UK so you can get a decryption card)    

On food, my experience (several years ago now) is that ordinary supermarket food is almost inedible. Bread tends to have so much sugar in it that it overpowers the tasteless cheeses. Mind you it is less abominable than the "Snapple" fruit flavoured corn syrup you have to put up with. Supermarket fruits and vegetables are always grown sacrificing taste for storage time and uniformity of appearence so comparing freshly harvested locally grown food is a bit tricky.

by Londonbear on Mon Sep 26th, 2005 at 02:10:18 AM EST
Cable never really caught on and even now is the Cinderella of systems)

In former communist countries at least, it has become very common. Cheaper than satellite.

*Lunatic*, n.
One whose delusions are out of fashion.

by DoDo on Tue Sep 27th, 2005 at 09:40:57 AM EST
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